Into the Animal Kingdom with Victor Wong

Welcome to Scentrified Interviews, where I explore the stories, inspirations, and dreams of owners of perfume boutiques and brands, people who have truly dedicated their life to the pursuit of scentual excellence. Happy reading!

From the intriguing depths of the smoky T-Rex, to the playful charm of the fruity Chameleon, Zoologist Perfumes has carved a unique niche in the fragrance world. Behind the captivating animal-inspired scents lies a story of rapid growth, creative collaborations, and the challenges of navigating an increasingly popular niche market. 

As Zoologist is my all time favorite perfume brand, I’d actually been meaning to interview Victor Wong (the brand's founder) for years. When I finally reached out, he shared insights into Zoologist’s evolution, future plans, and the philosophy that drives its distinctive approach to perfumery. Read on to delve into the heart of the brand and explore the journey from a passion project to a global phenomenon.

“It’s almost growing too fast,
I’m kind of stuck in a bottleneck!”

With 40-something different bottles, Zoologist has already been around for over a decade. But the growth they’ve seen in the recent couple of years has been nothing short of explosive, particularly fueled by the reach of niche fragrance influencers, on platforms like TikTok and Instagram. This surge in popularity, however, has presented some logistical and production related hurdles. 

The transition from a “basement style operation” to a brand shipping around 20k bottles annually has necessitated a reevaluation of production and packaging. The possibility of a European shipping and fulfillment partner has also been considered, though Victor likens it to a “franchise”, a concept that feels daunting. “The business side of things is kind of triggering for me,” he confesses laughingly.

Squid is one of Victor’s bestsellers, currently at around 300-500 bottles a month.

At the core of Zoologist’s success lies its collaborative spirit with independent perfumers. The brand's founder emphasizes the importance of working with diverse talents, avoiding repetition, and fostering creative freedom. The story of Prin Lomros, who to date has done the most scents for the brand, exemplifies this dedication. Right at the beginning, Prin wanted to create something for Zoologist;

“He sent me about 30 mods of different animals. I was so moved.” 

However, working with indie perfumers also presents some challenges. Victor says they can be “rough around the edges” and more strong willed than other perfumers, but at the same time “full of unique and innovative ideas”.

The search for the perfect Otter scent, for instance, proved challenging, with the founder feeling the perfumer hadn’t understood his brief at all, and the animal was scrapped. The process of fragrance development is often iterative, with some scents requiring dozens of revisions. “The original version of Dragonfly had something like 50 mods, and in the end the perfumer told me to ‘Take it or leave it’”, he recalls, revealing the intricate and sometimes demanding nature of creating a Zoologist fragrance.

Bat (to the right) is one of the scents that has gone through a reformulation.

Zoologist’s animal-inspired concept continues to drive its creative direction. The brand is known for exploring unconventional animal themes, venturing beyond the usual suspects. People often request that Victor releases animals like Shark, Turtle, Alligator, Wolf…

“…but I just like cute and weird animals!” 

And in true Victor Wong fashion, today, on the 1st of April, there was a surprise limited release (which sold out immediately) of Olm, by Spyros Drosopoulos (of Baruti fame). But fret not, it’s coming back next year. And before that, there will be two more releases in 2025 – Orchid Mantis by Tomoo Inaba (Moth/Nightingale) and Portuguese Man O’War by Antoine Lie. Victor teases the latter with the question: “Can you evoke pain and fear in a scent?”

The founder also mentions the concept of a microscopic animal, a bold and imaginative idea that challenges the perfumer to create a scent that “evokes entire ecosystems”. The concept, a sort of polar opposite to T-Rex, has been discussed with Antonio Gardoni [the dino perfumer himself], but put on hold for the moment. 

Zoologist’s business decisions are rooted in a desire to maintain authenticity and creative control. The shift to round bottles and machine labeling was a practical move, addressing the inefficiencies of hand-labeling. 

The new round bottles have an updated label, with the name of the perfumer to the left of the portrait, with the name of the animal to the right. The bottles are basically the same size, but the grip in your hand is much better, with an embossed base and a magnetic cap.

“I have over 10 years of experience putting on labels, but the rejection rate was still 50%. It’s just not worth it.” 

The rise of niche perfumery has undoubtedly benefited Zoologist, but the brand’s appeal extends beyond fleeting trends. Polarizing scents like Hyrax continue to find their audience, proving that there’s a demand for bold and unconventional fragrances. “The animalic lovers are still into those intense things I guess!”

The brand’s success reflects the growing appreciation for unique and artistic fragrances, signaling a shift in the broader perfume landscape. And while the idea of selling the brand has been considered, it’s not something that is being actively pursued. “Zoologist will probably just end whenever I retire,” Victor adds. 

Zoologist Perfumes stands as a testament to the power of creative vision and the challenges of scaling a passion project. From its humble beginnings to its current status as a celebrated niche brand, Zoologist continues to push boundaries and redefine the art of fragrance. With exciting new releases on the horizon and a commitment to authenticity, Zoologist’s journey is far from over, promising to captivate fragrance enthusiasts for years to come.

PS1. All pictures of the old bottles in this article are from my own series called Zoologist Poetry Hour, that I publish on my Instagram from time to time, complete with a specially written poem for each animal.

Also, don’t forget to follow me (@scentrified) and Zoologist (+ here’s the brand website).

PS2. Would you like to see your boutique, brand or perhaps yourself on the blog? Send me an email and let’s talk!

Dreaming of peaches and divas: Inside Sarah Baker's creative mind

Welcome to Scentrified Interviews, where I explore the stories, inspirations, and dreams of owners of perfume boutiques and brands, people who have truly dedicated their life to the pursuit of scentual excellence. Happy reading!

It isn't difficult to spot her in a room full of perfume industry leaders. Among mainly suit clad businesspeople, all eyes and attention easily go to Sarah Baker, an effortlessly glamorous but down to earth diva. With a background in the art world, she has a unique perspective and approach to fragrance, and her vision always seems crystal clear.

In interviews, she often mentions romance novels and nighttime soaps from the 1980s as a huge inspiration. The influence of these genres can be seen across Sarah Baker's work, through the dramatic and elegant, yet playful and mysterious fragrances the brand has come up with so far.

What exactly is it about these soaps and romance novels that interests you?

“That world holds a special place in my heart. These shows offer a fantastic blend of drama and romance, with a touch of murder and mystery. And the novels often have a forbidden love element. There's also a certain cheesiness and humor that is so charming, and it reflects an aesthetic that I find myself drawn to.”

You’ve also released an amazing book – Baroness – in collaboration with Versace, where the 80s soap theme shines through. In your opinion, how is fashion and fragrance connected?

“Since diving deeper into the world of fragrance, I see several interesting parallels. You have big trends, there are collectors, and there's the concept of a fragrance wardrobe – choosing scents based on mood or occasion, similar to how you might choose an outfit.”

“Perhaps fragrance is the new footwear?”

And then you did the brilliant song, Spritz Me with Your Love! I always get the feeling you're having lots of fun doing what you do. What's your message to people who take things too seriously?

“I started out with an artsy short film about a fictional perfume. Then for an exhibition, I basically turned the art gallery into a perfume boutique. I didn't have any business know-how at all. And I wouldn't say I'm jealous of it, but I admire the focus and dedication of very serious people. But there's also value in maintaining creativity and a sense of playfulness. I guess finding a way to ultimately blend these aspects is crucial for success.”

Speaking of fun, you once told a friend of mine to crash all the parties at Esxence (a perfume fair in Milan, Italy). What’s your best advice for someone who wants to crash a party?

“First impressions are key. Make sure you're well-groomed and put-together. A little lipstick or the right accessory can go a long way! Ideally, you want to appear like you belong.

If you can go with others who are genuinely invited, your chances of slipping in are much higher. Security personnel are less likely to question a small group, especially if everyone looks like they're meant to be there. I've personally crashed lots of art parties back in the day, and more recently I crashed the Xerjoff Yacht party in Cannes. All in all, they won't refuse you at the door unless someone like Beyoncé is in there.”

Having a small but passionate and resourceful team also gives Sarah Baker lots of creative freedom, and a great control over the final product. She and her team handle most aspects of production, from hiring artists to the hands-on creation of packaging. This allows them to maintain a strong artistic identity in everything they do.

“It's a family affair, with my husband as my co-owner and key partner. We also have wonderful support from our 9-year-old son, who gets involved in the creative process too. He offers his sense of smell and helps with naming and brainstorming based on visuals.”

Do you feel any pressure to continually release unique perfumes?

“To some extent, sure. But what truly matters to me is personal intrigue. A fragrance needs to spark my own interest. I've discontinued a couple of scents, like Lace, because they simply didn't hold my creative attention in the end.”

Sales figures isn't the sole deciding factor, either. Some of Sarah's less commercially successful scents, like Leopard, are her personal favorites. This scent has a devoted following, and its story resonates deeply with her, she says. The little script booklet that comes with Leopard feels like a scene straight out of Dynasty, taking place in the office of Joan Collins' character.

“She had a real leopard in her office you know!”

“In a way, I approach fragrance creation like casting characters for a soap opera. It's not like I have a specific persona in mind every time, but there's always a narrative element to my scents. Like, the idea of making a perfume based on a 10 ft tall dominatrix could be a fun thought experiment, but that's not really how inspiration strikes with me. Even if I initially want to explore a specific fragrance family, like with the Oud Trilogy, the creative process can take unexpected turns.”

What's the inspiration behind your latest release, Peach's Revenge? Tell us everything!

“We've worked with perfumer Chris Maurice before, and he often adds subtle fruity nuances in his work, even in scents that don't list them. This piqued my interest, and I suggested we do a fruit-forward fragrance. The name Peach's Revenge actually came to me in a dream! I woke up one morning with the name stuck in my head, and a memory of my mom's incredible peach pie.”

While the dessert itself never directly inspired Chris (he's never tasted it!), the name triggered an image that helped shape the overall mood. Sarah mentions that Chris added a creative twist by also incorporating guava and nectarine, two fruits she says she probably wouldn't have thought of.

How would you describe Peach's Revenge in pop culture terms?

“Peach's Revenge isn't necessarily about a specific character, but it definitely draws inspiration from strong female artists. Think of it as the fragrance equivalent of a song by Eve, or Kelis. It's bold, confident, and maybe a little bit unexpected, like a delicious milkshake with a surprising kick. It's not your typical girly and sweet perfume, just like those artists aren't your typical pop stars.”

“What truly matters to me is personal intrigue”

Peach's Revenge has been embraced by the fragrance community and gained wider recognition. I personally wouldn't be surprised if it goes on to win some kind of award down the line. Does it make you nervous about any future success?

“We do have a another gourmand fragrance coming up, from a perfumer we haven't worked with before. Maybe that will be a bit nerve wrecking, because there always seem to be very specific expectations when it's fruity or gourmand. Of course I hope Peach isn't the first and last time we face larger success, but our intention was never to do crowd-pleasers – we try to push boundaries and offer unique experiences. We create based on our vision, not trends. And if they don't become as big as Peach, and it's quite likely they won't, it honestly doesn't matter. Peach isn't going anywhere.”

Shortly after our interview, I attended the official release party for Peach's Revenge, at Jovoy Mayfair in London. The script for the new fragrance was acted out by four talented actors, directed and produced by Sarah herself. Peach drinks and mini peach cupcakes were served, adorned with tiny plastic swords. Who knew that revenge served with a slice of peach could smell, look and taste so good?

If you’re in the UK, you can find Sarah Baker’s perfumes at Jovoy Mayfair. For non-UK stockists and more about Sarah and the perfumes, head over the the brand website: https://www.sarahbakerperfumes.shop/.

And don’t forget to follow me (@scentrified) and the House of Sarah Baker on Instagram!

PS. Would you like to see your boutique, brand or perhaps yourself on the blog? Send me an email and let’s talk!

Left: Sarah Baker x Versace = Baroness. Right: Yours truly and Sarah, at Esxence in Milan, 2024.

Lisbon's new perfume concept

Have you ever dreamt of creating your own unique perfume? Look no further, because there’s a new perfume concept in Lisbon and it’s all about you! OPAR is a cute little place where you’re invited to create your own bespoke fragrance. It might sound daunting, but trust me, it’s a lot of fun and not difficult at all.

First you’ll talk to the perfumer about what smells you like and don’t like. You could even mention other things, like foods, experiences, places – whatever you think is important in the creation of your scent. From there on, you’ll get to smell various ingredients/notes, and rate them from 1 to 5. A few of the notes that I smelled were: black truffle, tomato leaf, absinthe, rhubarb and clary sage.

The perfumer (in this case the lovely Marie, pictured above) will then select the notes you rated 4-5 and see if they all fit together, perhaps remove something or add something, and then start creating the fragrance. Drip, drop, you’ll see the different ingredients blend together in a glass container and once everything is mixed, you can try it on skin. 

If you’re not really into the first version, don’t worry! You can always increase the amount of some of the notes, and try it again, and that’s how it goes. I think I had 6 or 7 different versions before I was satisfied with my creation, and chose the final edition. But the possibilities are truly endless.

Once you’re happy, the perfumer will make a full 100 ml bottle of your fragrance, and put a label on it. You can choose the name yourself too! For my fragrance, which I aptly named “Pick Me Up”, I was really into the idea of doing something strong and boozy. Here are the notes I chose:

Top: Yuzu, Fig, Absinthe
Heart: Whisky, Virginia Tobacco, Rice, Black Tea, Coffee
Base: Light Patchouli, Suede, Guaiac, Vegan Castoreum

To visit OPAR, you should book an appointment using their online form, and be ready to set aside about 90 minutes for your visit.

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As of June 2024, there is a second OPAR location, which you can find at the edge of Principe Real, close to Praça da Alegria. Here, the concept is basically the same, but focused more on group experiences. OPAR has also launched two novelty fragrances, Maresia and Veraneio, as well as matching candles. For the launch party, they served delicious non-alcoholic beverages from Awesome Beverage Co, paired with each fragrance.

Here are more details on the two new fragrances:

Maresia (inspired by the ocean drive towards Guincho)
Top: Sea foam, Bergamot, Spearmint
Heart: Eucalyptus, Solar Flowers, Incense, Elemi
Base: White Musk, Vetiver, Thyme, Sea Salt

Veraneio (repels mosquitoes and smells great!)
Top: Lime, Mint, Basil, Lemongrass
Heart: Eucalyptus, Spearmint, Rose
Base: White Woods

Cheering the opening of OPAR’s second location, together with my friend Uvika (@skintensely).

OPAR locations:
R. Garcia de Orta 71C lj11, 1200-678 Lisboa (Individual appointments)
R. da Alegria 41D, 1250-182 Lisboa (Group appointments + ready fragrances/candles)

Happy creating! And don’t forget to follow me (@scentrified) and OPAR on Instagram!

PS. Would you like to see your boutique/brand on the blog? Write me an email and let’s talk!

Gift ideas for a perfume collector!

The holiday season is already upon us, and it's time to spread joy and delight with gifts for our loved ones. If you have a friend who is passionate about collecting perfumes (hint hint!), finding the perfect gift can be a struggle if you’re not that into perfumes yourself. To help you in your quest, I've curated a list of five essential Christmas gift items that are sure to enchant any perfume collector.

1. A Perfume Sampler Set

Every perfume enthusiast loves the thrill of discovering new scents. A curated perfume sampler set allows your friend to explore a variety of fragrances from different brands and fragrance families. Look for sets that include both classic and niche perfumes to provide a diverse olfactory experience. This gift not only showcases your thoughtfulness but also lets your friend expand their collection with unique and memorable scents. Some EU stores that offer this service: Embassy Niche Perfumery, Jovoy, Ecuación Natural, and many others. For the US, I believe LuckyScent is a good option.

2. Customizable Perfume Atomizer

A perfume collector often likes to carry scents with them wherever they go. A customizable perfume atomizer is a practical and stylish gift that allows them to transfer and carry their preferred fragrance in a compact and travel-friendly container. These are also great for perfume collectors who often give away scent samples to their friends and family!

3. Scented Candles Inspired by Fragrances

Enhance your friend's sensory experience by gifting them scented candles inspired by popular fragrances in their collection. Many luxury perfume brands offer scented candles that mirror the essence of their signature scents. This gift not only adds an ambient touch to their space but also complements their passion for exquisite fragrances. Some of my favorite candles come from Perfumer H and Amoln.

4. Perfume Masterclass or Workshop

For the true connoisseur, consider gifting a perfume masterclass or workshop experience. Several perfumeries and fragrance houses offer workshops where participants can learn about the art of perfumery, understand different fragrance notes, and even create their own bespoke scent. This hands-on experience will be a memorable and educational gift that deepens your friend's appreciation for the world of perfumes. I know for a fact that brand and perfumer Ramon Monegal is offering this at the moment!

5. Perfume Display Case or Shelf

Help your friend showcase their prized perfume collection with an elegant perfume display case or shelf. Choose a case with a sleek design that not only organizes their bottles but also adds a touch of sophistication to their vanity or dresser. Look for options with adjustable compartments to accommodate various bottle sizes and shapes. This practical yet stylish gift will be a perfect addition to their perfume collection. A simple plastic or glass shelf to elevate a few bottles is also a nice addition for those who already have a case or cabinet for storing their collection.

To sum up…

This Christmas, delight your perfume-collecting friend with a gift that reflects their passion for exquisite scents. Whatever you end up getting, a thoughtful gift is sure to bring joy and warmth to their holiday season. Happy gifting, and Merry Christmas!

A Spiritually Scented Odyssey

Welcome to the second part of my series Scentrified Interviews, where I explore the stories, inspirations, and dreams of owners of perfume boutiques and brands, people who have truly dedicated their life to the pursuit of scentual excellence. Happy reading!

In the bustling streets of Paris, nestled among the city's iconic fashion houses and cafes, there's a fragrance boutique that stands out from the rest. Spiritum Paris, born from the remnants of a life-changing spiritual trip, has quickly gained a following, with its unique fragrances and sustainable ethos, leaving an indelible mark in the perfume industry. I recently had the pleasure of sitting down with Jonathan Dufour, the visionary founder of the brand that weaves together the mysticism of a shamanic retreat in Peru with the artistry of scent creation. 

Jonathan's journey to creating his own brand was anything but conventional. With a background working for other perfume brands, he found himself at a crossroads in life, yearning for something more profound.

"I needed to heal and regain my spiritual powers."

This feeling led him to embark on a transformative shamanic retreat in Peru. It was during this trip, surrounded by scents of sandalwood, incense, and sage, that the seeds of inspiration for Spiritum were sown.

Upon returning from his experience in South America, which he describes as filled with inner healing, Jonathan decided to channel the spiritual guidance he had received into creating his own brand. In 2022, he launched Spiritum, and within just a year, the doors of his perfume boutique opened in the heart of Paris. The boutique's success speaks volumes about the captivating fragrances, and according to Jonathan, a remarkable two-thirds of shoppers leave with a product in hand.

Spiritum Paris is not your typical French fragrance house. Instead, it's a place where spirituality and scent converge. Jonathan has introduced a first series of fragrances based on numerology (numbers 1 through 9), perfumes that harmonize with individual personalities. 

“I actually have another 10 fragrances to launch in the future.”

The brand has already found its way into the hearts of fragrance enthusiasts in France, US (online for now), and in Romania (the brand’s top 3 markets so far). For those who don’t know the brand at all, Jonathan recommends the latest addition – Shamanism – a blend of floral, citrusy, woody, ambery, and musky notes that transport you to a mystical realm. On most days, it’s this scent that he himself chooses to wear. 

“I have five favorite perfumers, so I called some of them and asked if they wanted to work with me.” 

To bring his unique vision to life, Jonathan has enlisted the talents of renowned perfumers Bertrand Duchafour and Philippe Paparella-Paris. Their collaboration has resulted in some quite unique and unconventional scents. The brand owner’s plans doesn't stop at his Parisian boutique. He is already dreaming about opening a shop in New York, and perhaps even Tokyo in the future. No matter where the brand takes him, it’s clear that his fragrances have the potential to enchant hearts and senses worldwide.

My photos of the discovery kit with numbers 1 through 9, and my bottle of Final Spirit (Nr 9).

Jonathan also gave me a sneak peek into what's to come. The upcoming collection, featuring the three master numbers – 11, 22, and 33 – will launch at the end of this year. One is centered around fresh orange blossom, one is a crisp leather, and the last a sweet patchouli (my personal favorite!). Each of them promises to be a spiritual journey of its own.

Lastly, Jonathan's beautiful commitment to sustainability extends to his packaging. He proudly shares that his brand uses no plastic and opts for eco-friendly packaging made from cork, sourced from Spain and Portugal, held together with sugar cane tape. It's a clear reflection of his dedication to both the Earth and the spiritual essence that his brand represents.

In a world of mass-produced and boring fragrances, Spiritum Paris offers a lovely blend of spirituality, sustainability, and magical scents – a testament to the power of following one's heart and intuition in both fragrance and life. It's a journey that continues to evolve, leaving us all eagerly anticipating what's next in this fragrant odyssey.

3 rapid fire questions with Jonathan Dufour:

1. Favorite note(s) in a perfume?
   Sandalwood

2. Best fragrance to use in Paris?
   Shamanism, by Spiritum Paris

3. One of your favorite brands/scents:
   Not a Perfume, by Juliette Has a Gun

Find the physical boutique in Paris, where you can also smell the brand’s candles. 

Address: 
36 Rue Jacob
75006 Paris

Happy shopping! And don’t forget to follow me (@scentrified) and Spiritum on Instagram!

PS. Would you like to see your boutique, brand or perhaps yourself on the blog? Write me an email and let’s talk!

Visiting Embassy Niche Perfumery

Welcome to the first part in a series I’m calling Scentrified Interviews, where I will explore the stories, inspirations, and dreams of owners of perfume boutiques and brands, people who have truly dedicated their life to the pursuit of scentual excellence.

So let’s start by embarking on an olfactory journey with the passionate owner of a charming Portuguese perfume boutique. In this exclusive interview, I delve deep into the Lisbon boutique that has captivated the hearts and noses of Portuguese and international perfume lovers alike. Read on to discover the secrets behind curating a unique collection of perfumes and gain insights into the fascinating world of niche fragrances. 

“We want to democratize niche perfumery and showcase the best.”

Embassy Niche Perfumery opened its doors in December of 2016, just a few days before Christmas. And they started out small, with brands like Rania J, Stephane Humbert Lucas and Andy Tauer. They mainly stock “the niche of the niche”, as owner Ricardo Claudino calls it, and always aim to find brands with a specific DNA, and from many different countries. There are of course a couple of bigger brands too. 

“We don’t need to be on the biggest streets where everyone is walking, because not everyone is interested in niche perfumes to begin with.”

It won’t matter if you’re living in Lisbon, or if you’re just visiting. Embassy truly isn’t hard to find, located just a few steps away from the city’s most luxurious shopping street Avenida de Liberdade. Perhaps this is where you’ll find yourself when your traveling companion wants to visit a museum you don’t find all that interesting? 

“Our mission has always been to show Portugal what niche perfume can be. We don’t go for the biggest and most expensive brands, but try to have a good mix of brands that are sometimes harder to find.”

Niche perfumery in Portugal is still somewhat new, and has recently started growing. Ricardo mentions that they stocked the British brand BeauFort London in the beginning, but those fragrances were a little too complex and challenging for an audience that was just beginning to understand that there’s a world outside of what you’d find at at department store or in the duty free section of an airport. 

“But they’re ready for it now! I think BeauFort would work if we started stocking them again. The market has changed so much in the last couple of years.”

Curiosity for niche and indie perfumery in Portugal seems to have started in specific Facebook groups, and then grown from there. The covid pandemic also helped, as many started their scented journeys when they were stuck at home with nothing else to do. 

Ricardo himself started his career as a model, and frequently traveled to Milan, where he would discover the many varied perfume boutiques. He then worked with luxury brands and boutiques in Lisbon, where he gained deeper insights about the industry. 

Ricardo felt like there was a big opportunity to do something within the niche market when he opened Embassy. He explains that they like communication, and love getting to know their customers. “Without them, we are nothing. They are our boss!” he adds, with a smile.

“Without them, we are nothing.”

A typical Portuguese person interested in perfume wants big performance, projection, longevity. They like something that lasts, preferably all day long. Some people still seem to believe that perfume is a female interest, something to do with make-up and beauty, but Embassy can easily prove them wrong, as the majority of their clients are actually men. And most of them like sweet, fruity and gourmand scents. “Opulent stuff with lots of sillage”, says Ricardo.

And customers from all over the world seem to love Embassy. Not long ago they received an award from renowned Spanish magazine Beautyprof, proclaiming them as the best and finest international niche perfumery of 2023.

“It feels amazing that so many important people from the industry voted for us, it’s an indication we’re doing something right.” 

3 rapid fire questions with Ricardo Claudino:

1. Favorite note(s) in a perfume?
   Tobacco, bergamot, nutmeg

2. Best fragrance for summer in Lisbon?
   Torino21 by Xerjoff

3. What’s a smell you can’t stand?
   Rhubarb and licorice

At the moment of writing, Embassy stocks almost 40 brands. Some of these include Ramon Monegal, Francesca Bianchi, Born to Stand Out, Clive Christian, Profumum Roma, Les Indémodables, and Baruti. For a full list, head over to their website. As of September, they are also offering a sample service, any 5 samples of 2ml each, for the low price of €30. 

The success has encouraged Ricardo to open another Embassy boutique, this time in the northern city of Porto. The brands offered there will vary slightly from what is currently offered in Lisbon. Ricardo also runs a Xerjoff Boutique next door from Embassy in Lisbon. This store offers exclusively Xerjoff perfumes, also worth a visit if you’re already heading to Embassy. 

Lisbon boutique: 
Rua Rodrigues Sampaio 112 C

Porto boutique:  (opening in december 2023)
Rua de Ceuta 17

Happy shopping! And don’t forget to follow me (@scentrified) and Embassy on Instagram!

PS. Would you like to see your boutique/brand on the blog? Write me an email and let’s talk!

Niche perfumes and traveling

When I travel, one of my favorite activities is searching for niche perfumeries and indie brands. These hidden gems can offer a unique olfactory experience, where artistry and craftsmanship come together to create captivating scents. From bustling cities to smaller towns, I love to embark on a sensory adventure, seeking out perfumeries that are both on high end streets and off the beaten path. Each boutique unveils a world of aromas, blending rare and exquisite ingredients to create perfumes that tell stories and evoke emotions.

The process of finding these niche perfumeries has become a cherished ritual, allowing me to discover the essence of a place through its fragrances. Whether it's stumbling upon a small family-run establishment or visiting a renowned perfumer's atelier, these encounters are enriching, connecting me to the local culture and leaving an indelible imprint on my travel memories. And so I’d like to start a new series of interviews/stories here on the blog, to share some of these experiences, specifically about niche perfumeries, ateliers and their owners.

First stop: Embassy Niche Perfumery in Lisbon! Full interview with owner Ricardo coming very soon.

We want to democratize niche perfumery and showcase the best of the best.

– Ricardo Claudino, Embassy Niche Perfumery

PS. Would you like to see your boutique on the blog? Write me an email and let’s talk!

Interview with Matiere Premiere at Skinlife

A little while ago I had the honor of attending a Q&A at Skinlife in Lisbon, with Aurelien Guichard and Cédric Meiffret, two of the three founders of the perfume brand Matiere Premiere. 

If you’re not already familiar with the brand, they are quite popular lately and currently have 11 fragrances, one being a Harrods exclusive. My own favorites from the line are Encens Suave, Falcon Leather and Parisian Musc. And to my own surprise, I am not totally opposed to their immensely popular rose scent, Radical Rose. A couple of these will be touched upon in the interview below, so please keep reading to find out more about this special fragrance house. 

“If someone stops you in the street and asks what perfume you’re wearing, then I’ve done a good job.”

Matiere Premiere was founded in 2019. Previously, Aurelien had worked many years for Narciso Rodriguez, who as most people know, is obsessed with musks. So when Aurelien would later create Matiere’s own musk, he wanted to make something different. He went looking for woody notes, ended up using cedar wood oil, and then topped it off with a green leaf note to amplify the vegetal parts of the fragrance. He made a green, woody and sweet musk. The outcome is the classy and elegant Parisian Musc as we know it today.

One of the many things I enjoy with Matiere is the names of the fragrances. They’re not extremely extravagant, but they’re still playful and catchy. 

How do you come up with the fragrance names? 
It’s all about intuition to be honest. It also has to fit the fragrance of course. For example Crystal Saffron is a very clear saffron, not golden at all. We also wanted it to sound cool! In the end I often spend a lot of time on the name. I want them to sound open minded and international, not just French.

The line feels almost complete already, so how many fragrances will the final collection have?
Yes, we actually feel the same. There’s a sense of totality here, but I think there is still more to explore! I don’t like when you smell several scents from a brand and they all smell more or less the same. So I want the fragrances from Matiere to be unique and different from each other. We also don’t want too many fragrances, perhaps we’ll release one per year, and then we’ll see how long we’ll manage to stay alive. We have no reason to discontinue any fragrances at the moment, they’re all selling quite well. 

How long does it take you to create a fragrance, and when do you know that a fragrance is ready for release?
Radical Rose and French Flower took between 1000 and 2000 tries before I finally reached a result I was happy with. That’s about 1-2 years in total, because I can often do 5-10 tries in one day. Crystal Saffron on the other hand took only 10 tries, or 2 days. 

We don’t listen to too many opinions, we launch what we want and when we want. Usually we ask some people to wear the fragrance and see how the reactions are, in the street and at home. 

Are you considering releasing other product lines in the future?
We don’t want to put lots of products on the shelves, we want to launch bestsellers. And only when we are ready. If we have nothing we’re happy with, we won’t launch anything. In 2022 we launched 2 fragrances because the tuberose was finally ready. And like I said before, Crystal Saffron was faster to create than the others. 

“Radical Rose took almost two years to complete.”

However, we are launching a body product range this year. We’ll be extending into body lotion and so on. When you have different types of products from the same scent line, it makes the brand look richer. This also goes hand in hand with having our own boutiques.

What do you think about fragrance taste in different cultures and parts of the world?
It seems taste is changing all over the world right now. What we used to think people like in for example Japan is not true anymore, and what French people like to wear has changed a lot too. Having said that, I try to create fragrances that don’t feel too French, or too fashion. 

What ingredients do you prefer to work with?
I love rose petals. Radical Rose has the highest rose concentration in the world, something I set out to do from the start, because I wanted to see what it would be like. That’s why it’s so deep and rich. We own our own production and fields, of rose, tuberose and lavender. Thanks to this, we can control the whole process from seed to finished product. This is something that’s quite unheard of within the fragrance industry. 

Unfortunately, not all our ingredients are organic. Either because it is not available or because they don’t smell that great. But we are always trying to encourage producers of other ingredients to be more organic and eco-friendly. 

How about Oud Seven, will it ever be available outside of Harrods?
We get almost 2000 messages per day about Oud Seven. It’s an exclusive for Harrods, simply because it’s Harrods. At first we had Falcon Leather as a Harrods exclusive, and our brand was very, very small. This was fantastic for such a small brand, to have an exclusive release for Harrods! But then we wanted to do a wider release of the leather fragrance, because we like it so much and it was so popular. When we decided to do that, Harrods asked us to make a new exclusive. 

We are not planning on selling it outside of Harrods, and we don’t want to start making more exclusives for other stores or locations because then we might get stuck doing that instead of what we truly want to do. 

Do you work for other brands still? 
I work on scents for big mainstream designers, but not for any other niche brands. 

“Perhaps we’ll release one fragrance per year and see how long we manage to stay alive.”

What fragrances do you like to wear yourself?
On a normal day I will wear whatever I’m working on, to see how it feels. 

What’s the next fragrance to be released from Matiere Premiere?
I’m currently working on a vanilla, and the challenge is to create a vanilla that isn’t sweet. I did finish it once, a long time ago, but in the end I wasn’t happy with the result and now I’m reworking it from scratch. The plan is to release it in the fall this year (2023).

So, what do you guys think about the brand? Which fragrance is your favorite? I for one can’t wait to try this mysterious vanilla, so let’s hope it gets finished on time! Thanks to Skinlife for this wonderful opportunity to meet Aurelien and all the best of luck to Matiere Premiere with their future releases and endeavors. 

Cédric Meiffret and Aurelien Guichard from Matiere Premiere, at Skinlife in Lisbon.

Esxence 2023: Highlights and a recap!

Finally I made my return to the huge annual perfume event that is Esxence in Milan, Italy. It’s been a whole 6 years since I was there last. The event is bigger now, and the niche industry has evolved a lot since. Sales have increased enormously, and we suddenly have fragrance influencers on most social media platforms, something that was more or less limited to Youtube and blogs just a few years ago. 

Of course the event is way too big for one person to sniff all the creations and meet all the brands in just a few days, but I did my best. I spent two full days at the fair, and then I used all of Saturday to see the perfume boutiques in the city. I used the map and brand list to my advantage, and took only a couple of appointments throughout. This time I wanted to be free to walk around without too many hours booked in my agenda. Next time I might try to book more slots, let’s see, because meeting brands on your own with full attention is quite nice too. In the end, there were just a few brands I didn’t get the chance to try, but I’m sure I can smell them somewhere else pretty soon. 

A few observations…
There seems to be a cacao/chocolate gourmand trend going around, as many brands have recently introduced their own take on this delicious fruit/sweet. Rosendo Mateu is one of them, launching 1970, a delicious chocolate scent. The one that stood out to me the most however, was Cacao Porcelana from Atelier Materi (it might not be a novelty, but it was the best in this trending category for me). 

I also heard the phrase “this is a rose that isn’t your typical rose” a few times too many. Personally I’m not a big fan of rose in perfume, but I actually found one or two of these “not-your-typical-rose” scents to be quite wearable! So the phrase might have been true a couple of times, but come on, if you’re gonna market your new rose scent, maybe find a more intriguing and unique way of doing it, or hire a better marketing director/copywriter (like me, hint hint)… 

Another scent trend seems to be delicate skin scents and explorations of musks. We have Sogni from Meo Fusciuni (inspired by Japanese culture), Raku from Les Bains Guerbois (inspired by Japanese pottery) and Musc Pallas from Jovoy (inspired by space) to name just a few. Japan seems to be the inspiration for a lot of things these days, and you definitely won’t see me complain about this!

The bad parts…
Unfortunately, some brands were quite rude (Laboratorio Olfattivo, wow, it’s been a long time since I met someone so arrogant). Seriously, some people need to work on their people skills, or just not be at these events at all (Musicology, I’m looking at you and your staff/owners, who seemed to want to be anywhere but Esxence).

On the last day, I was physically assaulted by the brand owner of De Gabor, who wanted to spray my whole arm with his new perfume. As I was passing by, he waved at me to get my attention. I approached him and he immediately grabbed my arm. He said “You have to experience this on skin” and was just about to spray my whole arm. I was quick to politely decline, saying I prefer to try on a blotter first. He grabbed my arm so hard it actually hurt, and wouldn’t let go! He didn’t even seem surprised or embarrassed that I was clearly uncomfortable, but then he finally let go of me. He sprayed the perfume on a blotter, handed it to me without looking at me, and said “Have a nice day” in the most sarcastic way possible. He turned his back to me and I left, surprised, a bit shaken and not really able to process what had just happened. I didn’t smell the blotter, and now I’ll never ever try his perfumes. What a horrible experience, truly… But enough about that, let’s get back to the positive!

The best part of this whole trip was finally getting to meet several of my Instagram friends. I also met many old friends from Sweden, Portugal and several other places I’ve lived or visited. Some brand owners/perfumers even remembered me from 6 years ago, that was really nice (shoutout to Francesca Bianchi, you’re amazing!). I also ran into the wonderful Victor Wong from my favorite brand, Zoologist. Just like 6 years ago, he was kind enough to show me some upcoming releases (I already know I’ll get at least two of them as soon as they’re released!). And now, let’s talk about the best brands and scents I encountered at the fair this year.

Here are the new discoveries I enjoyed the most:

Gini Parfum 
This brand was previously known as Homoelegans, one of my favorite brands ever. When I heard it had come back from the dead in a new shape, I had to go talk to Francesco, the brand owner. He’s one of the nicest people around, and Gini is a really lovely brand. A few of the old perfumes are still provided, albeit in a new bottle and with new names. I must say I like the new design more, even though I miss the old names. If you don’t know these scents already, you need to order a discovery kit ASAP!

L’Orchestre
I’d been wanting to try this brand for a long time, having seen it around Instagram. And it honestly surprised me! I tried the whole line, and fell for several of the scents. My favorite one being the novelty – Liqueur BPM – a licorice concoction that I hope to review and explore more in the future. Out of the brands inspired by music, I definitely find this one to be the most interesting and unique. 

Toskovat’ 
One of my favorite finds this year, and the most unique of them all. Toskovat’ is a new Romanian and very artistic brand, with 10 scents in their line. Some of the fragrances feel somewhat unpolished and raw (maybe on purpose), but they’re incredibly interesting and very wearable. This is a discovery kit I’ll return to again and again throughout this year, I’m sure of it. The perfumer David-Lev Jipa-Slivinschi has fantastic potential and I can’t wait to see what he does in the future. 

J-Scent
A Japanese brand I’ve been dreaming of trying for a really long time. I smelled all the 25 scents, and several of them are just marvelous! My favorite of course, was Roasted Green Tea, which stood out immediately as a really great tea scent (something I’m sort of missing in my collection).

Pernoire 
I looove their bottle design, it’s so simple and elegant. Minimalism for me is often much better than extravagance, so Pernoire is perfect for me. The people behind the brand were very friendly, and I fell in love with both Tierra and the new gourmand-like release Naki. Looking forward to sniffing their future releases too. 

Pana Dora Sweden 
Another brand I’ve been curious for a long time, since they’re from my country. Most of the fragrances are really well blended. I loved XVI, Swedish Woods and the new white chocolate inspired release Moonlight. Unfortunately I couldn’t talk much to the brand owner, because he was in meetings every time I passed by. 

Electimuss 
The staff of Electimuss provided the best reception out of all the brands I talked to this year. Sue was so nice, I even returned the next day to talk to her again. What a lovely and happy person, I actually told her then and there that I wish all brands would make the same impression as she did. Thank you, really! The best find here was probably the ultra smooth Vici Leather, but I loved several of their fragrances, and need to come back to this house at some point to explore them even more.

Oman Luxury 
One of this year’s biggest brands, perhaps? They seem to be everywhere recently, and for good reason. I absolutely loved the presentation we got of the fragrances, and I already have three bottles in my collection. With Amouage, and now this brand, Oman is quickly becoming a dream destination for me! I’ve even been googling nature pictures from Oman, and man that country looks amazing.

Argentum 
The people behind this brand stayed at my hotel, and it was the first brand I talked to and sniffed this year. I love the design of the brand, the tarot-like cards and the spinning wheel with all the fragrances on top. I got to draw a card blindly, and got Creator, an airy amber scent, which was just divine and fit me perfectly. 

Elixir 
I got a great presentation of the brand and the scents, and immediately fell in love with Elude, a delicious scent inspired by red wine and wine cellars. I also really enjoyed the cannabis fragrance Inversion. The brand has also created bakhoor caviar perfumes, such an interesting and great smelling idea! 

Thank you to all the brands who received me, the friends who stuck around, and the great shop attendants and store managers that I met in several of the perfume boutiques around Milan. I also have upcoming collaborations with a few brands (if you’ve seen my “perfume duel” video with Sarah Colton at a certain brand’s booth, you might have a hint there), more about that in future Instagram and/or blog posts.

And that’s it from my side this time around. If you’ve read all the way here, thank you so much for reading. And hope to see you next year in Milan (unless we meet at Pitti before that, who knows!).

Top 5 sexiest fragrances

perfume can be basically anything. it can be sweet, dry, cold, sharp, make you think of your grandmother, clean laundry or even cat pee or a farm. perfume can also be incredibly sexy. in this post i’m highlighting 5 very different and very sexy perfumes. this is in no way a list of the sexiest fragrances in the world, but they might be the top 5 sexiest fragrances i own!

atractone musk is one of the latest releases from @ramonmonegal. this fragrance is a complex white floral arrangement, with a sweaty cumin and sweet raspberry making the bouquet quite animalic. this dirty and musky nature forms a second skin on my body, not to be confused with a skin scent, because atractone is bigger than that. it’s radiant and alive, and similarly to faïsa, another great scent from the brand, atractone is chameleon-like and ever changing.

the seductive and sensual aspects of atractone hover above me like a halo, with a powerful grip on whoever dares to approach. there’s a retro feel to this scent, and from what i understand that’s the type of musky fragrance that ramon monegal wanted to honor when he created this modern yet classic and old fashioned perfume. in other words, he absolutely succeeded!

akaba by @antonioviscontiparfume is an opulent tobacco fragrance, heavy on the tonka and woody notes. it also has a surprising note of licorice, which makes the scent absolutely fantastic. akaba is composed in such a beautiful way. every note compliments the next, and nothing is unnecessary or out of place. even though honey isn't listed as a note, this is definitely honey-centered and sweet, but never sickly or cloying. i think this might be my favorite tobacco perfume ever.

akaba is a heavily concentrated and strong perfume, with almost syrupy qualities even though it's a sprayer and not an oil or attar. i consider it one of my top fragrances, that's how good i think it is!

quality of flesh by @homoelegansperfumes is a heady, beastly and incredibly sexy perfume. this is animalic, erotic, and naughty leather at its absolute best. the castoreum, civet and styrax makes it sultry and skanky, some might even say fecal at times. the notes of juniper berries and pepper give the fragrance a spicy and pungent feel, and i envision having a strong drink in a seedy and dark gay bar for some reason. this can be a demanding perfume, and it's certainly not for everyone. i've also noticed it behaves very differently on different people, which is even more intriguing to me.

i once wore a lot of this perfume to a sold out @feverray concert and let me tell you, it was an experience. the venue was quite small, full of people, and it was in the middle of winter, meaning people weren't exactly wearing shorts and t-shirts. needless to say, it got pretty sweaty in there (as it should at a fever ray concert!) and i got quite a few looks...

people who enjoy patchouli 24 from le labo or cuir from mona di orio should like this one, as they share that smoky, spicy and kind of meaty sensation.

civet by @zoologistperfumes is on the very top shelf for me. whenever someone asks me about my favorite perfumes, civet is always one that comes to mind. this is what i reach for when i want to feel truly extra. and do i get compliments wearing this? every! damn! time!

what a masterpiece of a fragrance, created by perfumer shelley waddington (also behind zoologist bestseller hummingbird).

an intriguing adventure, an old world safari on the savannah, a special evening in the sun. civet is fruity, spicy, musky, ambery, musty, animalic and resinous all at once, and it shows no signs of slowing down. this lasts for 24 hours, sometimes even longer. it definitely works better in colder weather, but no one could stop me from wearing it in the hottest summer either! and it is sooo sooo sexy.

you can read my review of mystic sugar from @coreterno in my previous post about vanilla perfumes.

what are your sexiest fragrances? let me know in the comments on by sending me a message on instagram!