niche fragrance

A Spiritually Scented Odyssey

Welcome to the second part of my series Scentrified Interviews, where I explore the stories, inspirations, and dreams of owners of perfume boutiques and brands, people who have truly dedicated their life to the pursuit of scentual excellence. Happy reading!

In the bustling streets of Paris, nestled among the city's iconic fashion houses and cafes, there's a fragrance boutique that stands out from the rest. Spiritum Paris, born from the remnants of a life-changing spiritual trip, has quickly gained a following, with its unique fragrances and sustainable ethos, leaving an indelible mark in the perfume industry. I recently had the pleasure of sitting down with Jonathan Dufour, the visionary founder of the brand that weaves together the mysticism of a shamanic retreat in Peru with the artistry of scent creation. 

Jonathan's journey to creating his own brand was anything but conventional. With a background working for other perfume brands, he found himself at a crossroads in life, yearning for something more profound.

"I needed to heal and regain my spiritual powers."

This feeling led him to embark on a transformative shamanic retreat in Peru. It was during this trip, surrounded by scents of sandalwood, incense, and sage, that the seeds of inspiration for Spiritum were sown.

Upon returning from his experience in South America, which he describes as filled with inner healing, Jonathan decided to channel the spiritual guidance he had received into creating his own brand. In 2022, he launched Spiritum, and within just a year, the doors of his perfume boutique opened in the heart of Paris. The boutique's success speaks volumes about the captivating fragrances, and according to Jonathan, a remarkable two-thirds of shoppers leave with a product in hand.

Spiritum Paris is not your typical French fragrance house. Instead, it's a place where spirituality and scent converge. Jonathan has introduced a first series of fragrances based on numerology (numbers 1 through 9), perfumes that harmonize with individual personalities. 

“I actually have another 10 fragrances to launch in the future.”

The brand has already found its way into the hearts of fragrance enthusiasts in France, US (online for now), and in Romania (the brand’s top 3 markets so far). For those who don’t know the brand at all, Jonathan recommends the latest addition – Shamanism – a blend of floral, citrusy, woody, ambery, and musky notes that transport you to a mystical realm. On most days, it’s this scent that he himself chooses to wear. 

“I have five favorite perfumers, so I called some of them and asked if they wanted to work with me.” 

To bring his unique vision to life, Jonathan has enlisted the talents of renowned perfumers Bertrand Duchafour and Philippe Paparella-Paris. Their collaboration has resulted in some quite unique and unconventional scents. The brand owner’s plans doesn't stop at his Parisian boutique. He is already dreaming about opening a shop in New York, and perhaps even Tokyo in the future. No matter where the brand takes him, it’s clear that his fragrances have the potential to enchant hearts and senses worldwide.

My photos of the discovery kit with numbers 1 through 9, and my bottle of Final Spirit (Nr 9).

Jonathan also gave me a sneak peek into what's to come. The upcoming collection, featuring the three master numbers – 11, 22, and 33 – will launch at the end of this year. One is centered around fresh orange blossom, one is a crisp leather, and the last a sweet patchouli (my personal favorite!). Each of them promises to be a spiritual journey of its own.

Lastly, Jonathan's beautiful commitment to sustainability extends to his packaging. He proudly shares that his brand uses no plastic and opts for eco-friendly packaging made from cork, sourced from Spain and Portugal, held together with sugar cane tape. It's a clear reflection of his dedication to both the Earth and the spiritual essence that his brand represents.

In a world of mass-produced and boring fragrances, Spiritum Paris offers a lovely blend of spirituality, sustainability, and magical scents – a testament to the power of following one's heart and intuition in both fragrance and life. It's a journey that continues to evolve, leaving us all eagerly anticipating what's next in this fragrant odyssey.

3 rapid fire questions with Jonathan Dufour:

  1. Favorite note(s) in a perfume?
    Sandalwood

  2. Best fragrance to use in Paris?
    Shamanism, by Spiritum Paris

  3. One of your favorite brands/scents:
    Not a Perfume, by Juliette Has a Gun

Find the physical boutique in Paris, where you can also smell the brand’s candles. 

Address
36 Rue Jacob
75006 Paris

Happy shopping! And don’t forget to follow me (@scentrified) and Spiritum on Instagram!

PS. Would you like to see your boutique, brand or perhaps yourself on the blog? Write me an email and let’s talk!

Visiting Embassy Niche Perfumery

Welcome to the first part in a series I’m calling Scentrified Interviews, where I will explore the stories, inspirations, and dreams of owners of perfume boutiques and brands, people who have truly dedicated their life to the pursuit of scentual excellence.

So let’s start by embarking on an olfactory journey with the passionate owner of a charming Portuguese perfume boutique. In this exclusive interview, I delve deep into the Lisbon boutique that has captivated the hearts and noses of Portuguese and international perfume lovers alike. Read on to discover the secrets behind curating a unique collection of perfumes and gain insights into the fascinating world of niche fragrances. 

“We want to democratize niche perfumery and showcase the best.”

Embassy Niche Perfumery opened its doors in December of 2016, just a few days before Christmas. And they started out small, with brands like Rania J, Stephane Humbert Lucas and Andy Tauer. They mainly stock “the niche of the niche”, as owner Ricardo Claudino calls it, and always aim to find brands with a specific DNA, and from many different countries. There are of course a couple of bigger brands too. 

“We don’t need to be on the biggest streets where everyone is walking, because not everyone is interested in niche perfumes to begin with.”

It won’t matter if you’re living in Lisbon, or if you’re just visiting. Embassy truly isn’t hard to find, located just a few steps away from the city’s most luxurious shopping street Avenida de Liberdade. Perhaps this is where you’ll find yourself when your traveling companion wants to visit a museum you don’t find all that interesting? 

“Our mission has always been to show Portugal what niche perfume can be. We don’t go for the biggest and most expensive brands, but try to have a good mix of brands that are sometimes harder to find.”

Niche perfumery in Portugal is still somewhat new, and has recently started growing. Ricardo mentions that they stocked the British brand BeauFort London in the beginning, but those fragrances were a little too complex and challenging for an audience that was just beginning to understand that there’s a world outside of what you’d find at at department store or in the duty free section of an airport. 

“But they’re ready for it now! I think BeauFort would work if we started stocking them again. The market has changed so much in the last couple of years.”

Curiosity for niche and indie perfumery in Portugal seems to have started in specific Facebook groups, and then grown from there. The covid pandemic also helped, as many started their scented journeys when they were stuck at home with nothing else to do. 

Ricardo himself started his career as a model, and frequently traveled to Milan, where he would discover the many varied perfume boutiques. He then worked with luxury brands and boutiques in Lisbon, where he gained deeper insights about the industry. 

Ricardo felt like there was a big opportunity to do something within the niche market when he opened Embassy. He explains that they like communication, and love getting to know their customers. “Without them, we are nothing. They are our boss!” he adds, with a smile.

“Without them, we are nothing.”

A typical Portuguese person interested in perfume wants big performance, projection, longevity. They like something that lasts, preferably all day long. Some people still seem to believe that perfume is a female interest, something to do with make-up and beauty, but Embassy can easily prove them wrong, as the majority of their clients are actually men. And most of them like sweet, fruity and gourmand scents. “Opulent stuff with lots of sillage”, says Ricardo.

And customers from all over the world seem to love Embassy. Not long ago they received an award from renowned Spanish magazine Beautyprof, proclaiming them as the best and finest international niche perfumery of 2023.

“It feels amazing that so many important people from the industry voted for us, it’s an indication we’re doing something right.” 

3 rapid fire questions with Ricardo Claudino:

  1. Favorite note(s) in a perfume?
    Tobacco, bergamot, nutmeg

  2. Best fragrance for summer in Lisbon?
    Torino21 by Xerjoff

  3. What’s a smell you can’t stand?
    Rhubarb and licorice

At the moment of writing, Embassy stocks almost 40 brands. Some of these include Ramon Monegal, Francesca Bianchi, Born to Stand Out, Clive Christian, Profumum Roma, Les Indémodables, and Baruti. For a full list, head over to their website. As of September, they are also offering a sample service, any 5 samples of 2ml each, for the low price of €30. 

The success has encouraged Ricardo to open another Embassy boutique, this time in the northern city of Porto. The brands offered there will vary slightly from what is currently offered in Lisbon. Ricardo also runs a Xerjoff Boutique next door from Embassy in Lisbon. This store offers exclusively Xerjoff perfumes, also worth a visit if you’re already heading to Embassy. 

Lisbon boutique: 
Rua Rodrigues Sampaio 112 C

Porto boutique:  (opening in december 2023)
Rua de Ceuta 17

Happy shopping! And don’t forget to follow me (@scentrified) and Embassy on Instagram!

PS. Would you like to see your boutique/brand on the blog? Write me an email and let’s talk!

Niche perfumes and traveling

When I travel, one of my favorite activities is searching for niche perfumeries and indie brands. These hidden gems can offer a unique olfactory experience, where artistry and craftsmanship come together to create captivating scents. From bustling cities to smaller towns, I love to embark on a sensory adventure, seeking out perfumeries that are both on high end streets and off the beaten path. Each boutique unveils a world of aromas, blending rare and exquisite ingredients to create perfumes that tell stories and evoke emotions.

The process of finding these niche perfumeries has become a cherished ritual, allowing me to discover the essence of a place through its fragrances. Whether it's stumbling upon a small family-run establishment or visiting a renowned perfumer's atelier, these encounters are enriching, connecting me to the local culture and leaving an indelible imprint on my travel memories. And so I’d like to start a new series of interviews/stories here on the blog, to share some of these experiences, specifically about niche perfumeries, ateliers and their owners.

First stop: Embassy Niche Perfumery in Lisbon! Full interview with owner Ricardo coming very soon.

We want to democratize niche perfumery and showcase the best of the best.

– Ricardo Claudino, Embassy Niche Perfumery

PS. Would you like to see your boutique on the blog? Write me an email and let’s talk!

Top 5 sexiest fragrances

perfume can be basically anything. it can be sweet, dry, cold, sharp, make you think of your grandmother, clean laundry or even cat pee or a farm. perfume can also be incredibly sexy. in this post i’m highlighting 5 very different and very sexy perfumes. this is in no way a list of the sexiest fragrances in the world, but they might be the top 5 sexiest fragrances i own!

atractone musk is one of the latest releases from @ramonmonegal. this fragrance is a complex white floral arrangement, with a sweaty cumin and sweet raspberry making the bouquet quite animalic. this dirty and musky nature forms a second skin on my body, not to be confused with a skin scent, because atractone is bigger than that. it’s radiant and alive, and similarly to faïsa, another great scent from the brand, atractone is chameleon-like and ever changing.

the seductive and sensual aspects of atractone hover above me like a halo, with a powerful grip on whoever dares to approach. there’s a retro feel to this scent, and from what i understand that’s the type of musky fragrance that ramon monegal wanted to honor when he created this modern yet classic and old fashioned perfume. in other words, he absolutely succeeded!

akaba by @antonioviscontiparfume is an opulent tobacco fragrance, heavy on the tonka and woody notes. it also has a surprising note of licorice, which makes the scent absolutely fantastic. akaba is composed in such a beautiful way. every note compliments the next, and nothing is unnecessary or out of place. even though honey isn't listed as a note, this is definitely honey-centered and sweet, but never sickly or cloying. i think this might be my favorite tobacco perfume ever.

akaba is a heavily concentrated and strong perfume, with almost syrupy qualities even though it's a sprayer and not an oil or attar. i consider it one of my top fragrances, that's how good i think it is!

quality of flesh by @homoelegansperfumes is a heady, beastly and incredibly sexy perfume. this is animalic, erotic, and naughty leather at its absolute best. the castoreum, civet and styrax makes it sultry and skanky, some might even say fecal at times. the notes of juniper berries and pepper give the fragrance a spicy and pungent feel, and i envision having a strong drink in a seedy and dark gay bar for some reason. this can be a demanding perfume, and it's certainly not for everyone. i've also noticed it behaves very differently on different people, which is even more intriguing to me.

i once wore a lot of this perfume to a sold out @feverray concert and let me tell you, it was an experience. the venue was quite small, full of people, and it was in the middle of winter, meaning people weren't exactly wearing shorts and t-shirts. needless to say, it got pretty sweaty in there (as it should at a fever ray concert!) and i got quite a few looks...

people who enjoy patchouli 24 from le labo or cuir from mona di orio should like this one, as they share that smoky, spicy and kind of meaty sensation.

civet by @zoologistperfumes is on the very top shelf for me. whenever someone asks me about my favorite perfumes, civet is always one that comes to mind. this is what i reach for when i want to feel truly extra. and do i get compliments wearing this? every! damn! time!

what a masterpiece of a fragrance, created by perfumer shelley waddington (also behind zoologist bestseller hummingbird).

an intriguing adventure, an old world safari on the savannah, a special evening in the sun. civet is fruity, spicy, musky, ambery, musty, animalic and resinous all at once, and it shows no signs of slowing down. this lasts for 24 hours, sometimes even longer. it definitely works better in colder weather, but no one could stop me from wearing it in the hottest summer either! and it is sooo sooo sexy.

you can read my review of mystic sugar from @coreterno in my previous post about vanilla perfumes.

what are your sexiest fragrances? let me know in the comments on by sending me a message on instagram!