Into the Animal Kingdom with Victor Wong

Welcome to Scentrified Interviews, where I explore the stories, inspirations, and dreams of owners of perfume boutiques and brands, people who have truly dedicated their life to the pursuit of scentual excellence. Happy reading!

From the intriguing depths of the smoky T-Rex, to the playful charm of the fruity Chameleon, Zoologist Perfumes has carved a unique niche in the fragrance world. Behind the captivating animal-inspired scents lies a story of rapid growth, creative collaborations, and the challenges of navigating an increasingly popular niche market. 

As Zoologist is my all time favorite perfume brand, I’d actually been meaning to interview Victor Wong (the brand's founder) for years. When I finally reached out, he shared insights into Zoologist’s evolution, future plans, and the philosophy that drives its distinctive approach to perfumery. Read on to delve into the heart of the brand and explore the journey from a passion project to a global phenomenon.

“It’s almost growing too fast,
I’m kind of stuck in a bottleneck!”

With 40-something different bottles, Zoologist has already been around for over a decade. But the growth they’ve seen in the recent couple of years has been nothing short of explosive, particularly fueled by the reach of niche fragrance influencers, on platforms like TikTok and Instagram. This surge in popularity, however, has presented some logistical and production related hurdles. 

The transition from a “basement style operation” to a brand shipping around 20k bottles annually has necessitated a reevaluation of production and packaging. The possibility of a European shipping and fulfillment partner has also been considered, though Victor likens it to a “franchise”, a concept that feels daunting. “The business side of things is kind of triggering for me,” he confesses laughingly.

Squid is one of Victor’s bestsellers, currently at around 300-500 bottles a month.

At the core of Zoologist’s success lies its collaborative spirit with independent perfumers. The brand's founder emphasizes the importance of working with diverse talents, avoiding repetition, and fostering creative freedom. The story of Prin Lomros, who to date has done the most scents for the brand, exemplifies this dedication. Right at the beginning, Prin wanted to create something for Zoologist;

“He sent me about 30 mods of different animals. I was so moved.” 

However, working with indie perfumers also presents some challenges. Victor says they can be “rough around the edges” and more strong willed than other perfumers, but at the same time “full of unique and innovative ideas”.

The search for the perfect Otter scent, for instance, proved challenging, with the founder feeling the perfumer hadn’t understood his brief at all, and the animal was scrapped. The process of fragrance development is often iterative, with some scents requiring dozens of revisions. “The original version of Dragonfly had something like 50 mods, and in the end the perfumer told me to ‘Take it or leave it’”, he recalls, revealing the intricate and sometimes demanding nature of creating a Zoologist fragrance.

Bat (to the right) is one of the scents that has gone through a reformulation.

Zoologist’s animal-inspired concept continues to drive its creative direction. The brand is known for exploring unconventional animal themes, venturing beyond the usual suspects. People often request that Victor releases animals like Shark, Turtle, Alligator, Wolf…

“…but I just like cute and weird animals!” 

And in true Victor Wong fashion, today, on the 1st of April, there was a surprise limited release (which sold out immediately) of Olm, by Spyros Drosopoulos (of Baruti fame). But fret not, it’s coming back next year. And before that, there will be two more releases in 2025 – Orchid Mantis by Tomoo Inaba (Moth/Nightingale) and Portuguese Man O’War by Antoine Lie. Victor teases the latter with the question: “Can you evoke pain and fear in a scent?”

The founder also mentions the concept of a microscopic animal, a bold and imaginative idea that challenges the perfumer to create a scent that “evokes entire ecosystems”. The concept, a sort of polar opposite to T-Rex, has been discussed with Antonio Gardoni [the dino perfumer himself], but put on hold for the moment. 

Zoologist’s business decisions are rooted in a desire to maintain authenticity and creative control. The shift to round bottles and machine labeling was a practical move, addressing the inefficiencies of hand-labeling. 

The new round bottles have an updated label, with the name of the perfumer to the left of the portrait, with the name of the animal to the right. The bottles are basically the same size, but the grip in your hand is much better, with an embossed base and a magnetic cap.

“I have over 10 years of experience putting on labels, but the rejection rate was still 50%. It’s just not worth it.” 

The rise of niche perfumery has undoubtedly benefited Zoologist, but the brand’s appeal extends beyond fleeting trends. Polarizing scents like Hyrax continue to find their audience, proving that there’s a demand for bold and unconventional fragrances. “The animalic lovers are still into those intense things I guess!”

The brand’s success reflects the growing appreciation for unique and artistic fragrances, signaling a shift in the broader perfume landscape. And while the idea of selling the brand has been considered, it’s not something that is being actively pursued. “Zoologist will probably just end whenever I retire,” Victor adds. 

Zoologist Perfumes stands as a testament to the power of creative vision and the challenges of scaling a passion project. From its humble beginnings to its current status as a celebrated niche brand, Zoologist continues to push boundaries and redefine the art of fragrance. With exciting new releases on the horizon and a commitment to authenticity, Zoologist’s journey is far from over, promising to captivate fragrance enthusiasts for years to come.

PS1. All pictures of the old bottles in this article are from my own series called Zoologist Poetry Hour, that I publish on my Instagram from time to time, complete with a specially written poem for each animal.

Also, don’t forget to follow me (@scentrified) and Zoologist (+ here’s the brand website).

PS2. Would you like to see your boutique, brand or perhaps yourself on the blog? Send me an email and let’s talk!

Dreaming of peaches and divas: Inside Sarah Baker's creative mind

Welcome to Scentrified Interviews, where I explore the stories, inspirations, and dreams of owners of perfume boutiques and brands, people who have truly dedicated their life to the pursuit of scentual excellence. Happy reading!

It isn't difficult to spot her in a room full of perfume industry leaders. Among mainly suit clad businesspeople, all eyes and attention easily go to Sarah Baker, an effortlessly glamorous but down to earth diva. With a background in the art world, she has a unique perspective and approach to fragrance, and her vision always seems crystal clear.

In interviews, she often mentions romance novels and nighttime soaps from the 1980s as a huge inspiration. The influence of these genres can be seen across Sarah Baker's work, through the dramatic and elegant, yet playful and mysterious fragrances the brand has come up with so far.

What exactly is it about these soaps and romance novels that interests you?

“That world holds a special place in my heart. These shows offer a fantastic blend of drama and romance, with a touch of murder and mystery. And the novels often have a forbidden love element. There's also a certain cheesiness and humor that is so charming, and it reflects an aesthetic that I find myself drawn to.”

You’ve also released an amazing book – Baroness – in collaboration with Versace, where the 80s soap theme shines through. In your opinion, how is fashion and fragrance connected?

“Since diving deeper into the world of fragrance, I see several interesting parallels. You have big trends, there are collectors, and there's the concept of a fragrance wardrobe – choosing scents based on mood or occasion, similar to how you might choose an outfit.”

“Perhaps fragrance is the new footwear?”

And then you did the brilliant song, Spritz Me with Your Love! I always get the feeling you're having lots of fun doing what you do. What's your message to people who take things too seriously?

“I started out with an artsy short film about a fictional perfume. Then for an exhibition, I basically turned the art gallery into a perfume boutique. I didn't have any business know-how at all. And I wouldn't say I'm jealous of it, but I admire the focus and dedication of very serious people. But there's also value in maintaining creativity and a sense of playfulness. I guess finding a way to ultimately blend these aspects is crucial for success.”

Speaking of fun, you once told a friend of mine to crash all the parties at Esxence (a perfume fair in Milan, Italy). What’s your best advice for someone who wants to crash a party?

“First impressions are key. Make sure you're well-groomed and put-together. A little lipstick or the right accessory can go a long way! Ideally, you want to appear like you belong.

If you can go with others who are genuinely invited, your chances of slipping in are much higher. Security personnel are less likely to question a small group, especially if everyone looks like they're meant to be there. I've personally crashed lots of art parties back in the day, and more recently I crashed the Xerjoff Yacht party in Cannes. All in all, they won't refuse you at the door unless someone like Beyoncé is in there.”

Having a small but passionate and resourceful team also gives Sarah Baker lots of creative freedom, and a great control over the final product. She and her team handle most aspects of production, from hiring artists to the hands-on creation of packaging. This allows them to maintain a strong artistic identity in everything they do.

“It's a family affair, with my husband as my co-owner and key partner. We also have wonderful support from our 9-year-old son, who gets involved in the creative process too. He offers his sense of smell and helps with naming and brainstorming based on visuals.”

Do you feel any pressure to continually release unique perfumes?

“To some extent, sure. But what truly matters to me is personal intrigue. A fragrance needs to spark my own interest. I've discontinued a couple of scents, like Lace, because they simply didn't hold my creative attention in the end.”

Sales figures isn't the sole deciding factor, either. Some of Sarah's less commercially successful scents, like Leopard, are her personal favorites. This scent has a devoted following, and its story resonates deeply with her, she says. The little script booklet that comes with Leopard feels like a scene straight out of Dynasty, taking place in the office of Joan Collins' character.

“She had a real leopard in her office you know!”

“In a way, I approach fragrance creation like casting characters for a soap opera. It's not like I have a specific persona in mind every time, but there's always a narrative element to my scents. Like, the idea of making a perfume based on a 10 ft tall dominatrix could be a fun thought experiment, but that's not really how inspiration strikes with me. Even if I initially want to explore a specific fragrance family, like with the Oud Trilogy, the creative process can take unexpected turns.”

What's the inspiration behind your latest release, Peach's Revenge? Tell us everything!

“We've worked with perfumer Chris Maurice before, and he often adds subtle fruity nuances in his work, even in scents that don't list them. This piqued my interest, and I suggested we do a fruit-forward fragrance. The name Peach's Revenge actually came to me in a dream! I woke up one morning with the name stuck in my head, and a memory of my mom's incredible peach pie.”

While the dessert itself never directly inspired Chris (he's never tasted it!), the name triggered an image that helped shape the overall mood. Sarah mentions that Chris added a creative twist by also incorporating guava and nectarine, two fruits she says she probably wouldn't have thought of.

How would you describe Peach's Revenge in pop culture terms?

“Peach's Revenge isn't necessarily about a specific character, but it definitely draws inspiration from strong female artists. Think of it as the fragrance equivalent of a song by Eve, or Kelis. It's bold, confident, and maybe a little bit unexpected, like a delicious milkshake with a surprising kick. It's not your typical girly and sweet perfume, just like those artists aren't your typical pop stars.”

“What truly matters to me is personal intrigue”

Peach's Revenge has been embraced by the fragrance community and gained wider recognition. I personally wouldn't be surprised if it goes on to win some kind of award down the line. Does it make you nervous about any future success?

“We do have a another gourmand fragrance coming up, from a perfumer we haven't worked with before. Maybe that will be a bit nerve wrecking, because there always seem to be very specific expectations when it's fruity or gourmand. Of course I hope Peach isn't the first and last time we face larger success, but our intention was never to do crowd-pleasers – we try to push boundaries and offer unique experiences. We create based on our vision, not trends. And if they don't become as big as Peach, and it's quite likely they won't, it honestly doesn't matter. Peach isn't going anywhere.”

Shortly after our interview, I attended the official release party for Peach's Revenge, at Jovoy Mayfair in London. The script for the new fragrance was acted out by four talented actors, directed and produced by Sarah herself. Peach drinks and mini peach cupcakes were served, adorned with tiny plastic swords. Who knew that revenge served with a slice of peach could smell, look and taste so good?

If you’re in the UK, you can find Sarah Baker’s perfumes at Jovoy Mayfair. For non-UK stockists and more about Sarah and the perfumes, head over the the brand website: https://www.sarahbakerperfumes.shop/.

And don’t forget to follow me (@scentrified) and the House of Sarah Baker on Instagram!

PS. Would you like to see your boutique, brand or perhaps yourself on the blog? Send me an email and let’s talk!

Left: Sarah Baker x Versace = Baroness. Right: Yours truly and Sarah, at Esxence in Milan, 2024.

A Spiritually Scented Odyssey

Welcome to the second part of my series Scentrified Interviews, where I explore the stories, inspirations, and dreams of owners of perfume boutiques and brands, people who have truly dedicated their life to the pursuit of scentual excellence. Happy reading!

In the bustling streets of Paris, nestled among the city's iconic fashion houses and cafes, there's a fragrance boutique that stands out from the rest. Spiritum Paris, born from the remnants of a life-changing spiritual trip, has quickly gained a following, with its unique fragrances and sustainable ethos, leaving an indelible mark in the perfume industry. I recently had the pleasure of sitting down with Jonathan Dufour, the visionary founder of the brand that weaves together the mysticism of a shamanic retreat in Peru with the artistry of scent creation. 

Jonathan's journey to creating his own brand was anything but conventional. With a background working for other perfume brands, he found himself at a crossroads in life, yearning for something more profound.

"I needed to heal and regain my spiritual powers."

This feeling led him to embark on a transformative shamanic retreat in Peru. It was during this trip, surrounded by scents of sandalwood, incense, and sage, that the seeds of inspiration for Spiritum were sown.

Upon returning from his experience in South America, which he describes as filled with inner healing, Jonathan decided to channel the spiritual guidance he had received into creating his own brand. In 2022, he launched Spiritum, and within just a year, the doors of his perfume boutique opened in the heart of Paris. The boutique's success speaks volumes about the captivating fragrances, and according to Jonathan, a remarkable two-thirds of shoppers leave with a product in hand.

Spiritum Paris is not your typical French fragrance house. Instead, it's a place where spirituality and scent converge. Jonathan has introduced a first series of fragrances based on numerology (numbers 1 through 9), perfumes that harmonize with individual personalities. 

“I actually have another 10 fragrances to launch in the future.”

The brand has already found its way into the hearts of fragrance enthusiasts in France, US (online for now), and in Romania (the brand’s top 3 markets so far). For those who don’t know the brand at all, Jonathan recommends the latest addition – Shamanism – a blend of floral, citrusy, woody, ambery, and musky notes that transport you to a mystical realm. On most days, it’s this scent that he himself chooses to wear. 

“I have five favorite perfumers, so I called some of them and asked if they wanted to work with me.” 

To bring his unique vision to life, Jonathan has enlisted the talents of renowned perfumers Bertrand Duchafour and Philippe Paparella-Paris. Their collaboration has resulted in some quite unique and unconventional scents. The brand owner’s plans doesn't stop at his Parisian boutique. He is already dreaming about opening a shop in New York, and perhaps even Tokyo in the future. No matter where the brand takes him, it’s clear that his fragrances have the potential to enchant hearts and senses worldwide.

My photos of the discovery kit with numbers 1 through 9, and my bottle of Final Spirit (Nr 9).

Jonathan also gave me a sneak peek into what's to come. The upcoming collection, featuring the three master numbers – 11, 22, and 33 – will launch at the end of this year. One is centered around fresh orange blossom, one is a crisp leather, and the last a sweet patchouli (my personal favorite!). Each of them promises to be a spiritual journey of its own.

Lastly, Jonathan's beautiful commitment to sustainability extends to his packaging. He proudly shares that his brand uses no plastic and opts for eco-friendly packaging made from cork, sourced from Spain and Portugal, held together with sugar cane tape. It's a clear reflection of his dedication to both the Earth and the spiritual essence that his brand represents.

In a world of mass-produced and boring fragrances, Spiritum Paris offers a lovely blend of spirituality, sustainability, and magical scents – a testament to the power of following one's heart and intuition in both fragrance and life. It's a journey that continues to evolve, leaving us all eagerly anticipating what's next in this fragrant odyssey.

3 rapid fire questions with Jonathan Dufour:

1. Favorite note(s) in a perfume?
   Sandalwood

2. Best fragrance to use in Paris?
   Shamanism, by Spiritum Paris

3. One of your favorite brands/scents:
   Not a Perfume, by Juliette Has a Gun

Find the physical boutique in Paris, where you can also smell the brand’s candles. 

Address: 
36 Rue Jacob
75006 Paris

Happy shopping! And don’t forget to follow me (@scentrified) and Spiritum on Instagram!

PS. Would you like to see your boutique, brand or perhaps yourself on the blog? Write me an email and let’s talk!