Where Perfume Becomes Conversation

Welcome to Scentrified Interviews, where I explore the stories, inspirations, and dreams of selected people from the perfume industry – people who have truly dedicated their life to the pursuit of scentual excellence. Happy reading!

Andrea Alessandri and Adam Cavallari, co-founders of Jijide.

There’s something disarming about Jijide. A kind of openness – not naïve, but curious. When co-founders Adam Cavallari and Andrea Alessandri talk about their Dialogo collection, the word freedom comes up again and again. Not as a slogan, but as a necessary condition: that perfume should still be allowed to surprise its own creator.

The perfumers in this collection are all under 30. Not as a “young talent spotlight,” not to make the brand feel fresh or fashionable. The point was to invite voices who live inside the world they want to express. “Authenticity,” they say. People not yet shaped by commercial caution. People who don’t feel the need to make things trendy or universally liked.

“If we’re always thinking about trends, we lose the opportunity to connect with people”

There is a vulnerability in that. Younger creators bring instinct and rawness, and they are also learning how to articulate what they mean. So the process became collaborative in a very intimate way. First the concept, then the formula. This is how freedom was kept from dissolving into chaos – the story acted as the frame, the architecture the perfume could grow inside.

Sometimes that story was difficult.

Take the collaboration between close friends Boris and Adill. One a perfumer, the other a chef. One shy, one persuasive. With Fuoco, the scent began with memory: a puffer jacket that held cigarette smoke, cold air, and the warmth of someone who is no longer alive. The other scent, Terra, began with a calm sunset, warm air and conversation that finds its way back.

Disagreements obviously followed. Not only about materials. About meaning. How do you translate grief without falling into nostalgia? How do you capture evening relief without slipping into cliché? But the friction did not break the work. It clarified it and revealed what the perfumes wanted to say.

The Jijide line-up presented at Polaris Olfactive in Stockholm, 2025.

This kind of dialogue only works because the project stretches across cultures. Different countries have different emotional reference points – which fragrance notes feel “comforting,” which feel “clean,” which feel “dangerous.” Rather than resolve those differences, Jijide let them co-exist. Conflict wasn’t something to avoid – it was the material. The perfume becomes a meeting point, not a conclusion.

Even the bottles tell this story.

In the Personalità collection, color expressed mood. You choose which “self” you want to wear that day. The bottle announces it. The scent is a character stepping into the room.

In Dialogo, the bottles become quiet. Clear glass. Engraving instead of a label. No distractions.
The perfume doesn’t perform – it reveals.

And throughout all of this, there’s a steady and gentle refusal to chase trends. Yes, rice notes are everywhere lately. But Riso wasn’t shaped by trend forecasting – it came from working closely with a Chinese perfumer to explore the soft humidity of steamed rice, something textural rather than sentimental. A note that stays close to the skin, like warmth rather than memory.

Connection isn’t always soft. Sometimes people reject the perfume entirely. Dentro is one of those divisive scents – praised, argued over, misunderstood, adored. And occasionally, cultural bias surfaces… assumptions about quality or identity that sit just beneath the language of fragrance criticism. Those moments are jarring, but also clarifying.

“Some people seem to think Made in China means bad quality, but that’s simply not true. In Italy, we’ve been forced to show our faces for people to see that we’re Europeans.”

And then something else happens:

In China, Grano is beloved. What people find in it there is not what many Europeans find. Their reading is different, and it is equally true. Perfume travels through bodies and experience, not instructions. It does not need to be understood the same way to be real.

My interpretation of Fuoco – check out my post on Instagram.

A few months ago I happened to be stuck in an elevator with Adam and five others. No air conditioning. A scorching French heat wave. Ninety minutes of anxiety. So at the end of our interview I had to ask which perfume they would choose to wear if that happened again.

No one hesitated.

Andrea chose Oltre. “Because it is calm, and it makes space.” An instinct toward softness. Adam chose Terra. “To cover the sweat.” A light answer that still explained everything.

Because after all, perfume is how we stay human in close quarters.
How we share ourselves and communicate without speaking.
How we make room for each other, even when the room is small.

Adam and Andrea, co-founders of Jijide, in Stockholm, November 2025.

Bonus question – if you had to match a Jijide scent with a film, which one would you choose and why?

ANDREA: 

A movie that is deeply connected to my life is Nuovo Cinema Paradiso. It reminds me that childhood memories and teachings, distant in time but rich in sensory detail, are my own treasure. I always get emotional at the end, yet my personal story is happy. The Jijide fragrance that matches this is Shao Guan. Magnolia is the scent of the gardens from my childhood.

ADAM: 

The English Patient. There is a love scene during a Christmas party in the desert that has stayed with me (you can watch it here). Ralph Fiennes and Kristin Scott Thomas make love while the celebration unfolds around them. Throughout the film, sweat is a recurring presence, but in this moment, it reaches its peak. It feels unmatched, not only in this film but in cinema as a whole. The Jijide perfume I associate with that scene is Terra.

PS. Don’t forget to follow me @scentrified and @jijide.milano on Instagram. And if you’d like to see your boutique, brand or perhaps yourself on the blog, please send an email and let’s talk!

A Slower Kind of Big Bang

Welcome to Scentrified Interviews, where I explore the stories, inspirations, and dreams of selected people from the perfume industry, people who have truly dedicated their life to the pursuit of scentual excellence. Happy reading!

Mo, the founder of YLEM. Photo courtesy of YLEM Parfums.

If the cosmos had a scent, it might start here. With three bottles orbiting quietly in space, waiting for you to tilt your head just enough to catch a glint. YLEM is the name of the brand, and also the name of primordial matter. Mo, its creator, knows this well.

“When I found that word, everything clicked”

He had been collecting perfumes for years. Hundreds of them. The kind of collection that spills past logic and starts to resemble a star map. “I had this idea,” he tells me, “that I could turn my hobby into work. Translate galaxies into scent.”

And so he did. Slowly.

Mo had worked in advertising agencies for years. Then he went freelance, and that changed everything. “It wouldn’t have been possible otherwise,” he admits. The last few years were intense. “But perfume is my passion.”

From the beginning, YLEM was built with precision. The logo. The bottle. The weight of the cap. The visual identity took shape in Berlin, but the concept lived elsewhere, on the outer edge of something imagined.

Even the glass bottle holds clues. Etched with the coordinates of a nebula. A label that looks like it’s being pulled through spacetime, Interstellar-style. And the cap? It had to be heavy. The texture of it, slightly ribbed, evokes the feeling of adjusting a telescope. Sharpening the image. Zeroing in.

That same instinct led Mo to perfumer Andreas Wilhelm. He spoke with several other perfumers too, but this one conversation stood out. “The chemistry was immediate,” he says. “He got it. And he never gave up.”

Over the course of a year and a half, they built the debut trio – Soap Bubble, Eastern Veil, and Eye of God. “Andreas never tired of revising,” Mo says. “He was always ready to tweak, try again, keep going.”

“It’s all about patience”

Eye of God, photos by me.

There are more scents on the way. But he's not in a rush. “The perfume world moves slowly. Production, development, even getting stocked in a store… it’s all about patience.” That surprised him at first. “Coming from advertising, everything’s so fast. Here, you learn to wait.”

Even designing the cap took months. “That was the most painful part,” he laughs. “We wanted it to feel good in the hand, to look sharp, but still be manufacturable. Nothing about it was simple.”

Indeed, nothing about YLEM is simple. It’s not supposed to be.

Take Eye of God, the first fragrance they finished. “I thought it would be more masculine,” he says. “But a lot of women love it. That makes me really happy.”

“I don’t believe in gendered perfume anyway”

And Soap Bubble? “That’s the one I’d send into a black hole,” he says, grinning. “It’s the most approachable. I’d want to optimise the odds of whoever finds it… liking it.”

Mo nearly launched YLEW without listing any notes. “Sometimes we read a note and think we know exactly what we’ll smell, but then we’re wrong.” In the end, he included them. But he still prefers a bit of surprise.

When I ask what scent doesn’t belong to Earth, he answers immediately: “Moon Dust, by MiN New York. It smells like burnt stone. Like what I imagine the moon might smell like. Also No Perfume by The Zoo, it’s maybe the darkest thing I’ve ever smelled.”

And what does YLEM really smell like, in the end?
Not answers. Not speed. Not planets.
Just the slow unfolding of a question, drifting in the dark, still forming.

PS. Don’t forget to follow me @scentrified on Instagram! Until Sunday the 21st of Sept 2025, I’m hosting a GIVEAWAY of Soap Bubble. And if you’d like to see your boutique, brand or perhaps yourself on the blog? Send me an email and let’s talk!

Eye of God, photos by me.

What Lingers: A Study in Scent and Survival

Welcome to Scentrified Interviews, where I explore the stories, inspirations, and dreams of selected people from the perfume industry, people who have truly dedicated their life to the pursuit of scentual excellence. Happy reading!

Robin Dünner, from one of our many meetings at Esxence in Milan. My own photos.

Somewhere between remembering and forgetting is where perfume lives. A Tuesday. A train platform. A stranger’s coat. A past self. Robin, co-founder of Pernoire, a Swiss niche perfume house, lives somewhere in that space too – between utility and mystery, between art and content calendar, between what smells good and what sells.

“It took us years to get to eight perfumes,” Robin says, referring to the Anima collection — eight black bottles that now stand like quiet sentinels on a shelf. But their newer white collection, Odus, is accelerating. Three perfumes released in its first year: Poka, Anelo, and the recently released Melos. A fourth, still unnamed, is floating somewhere in the future, set to arrive this fall.

Robin says the white line needed siblings. “Otherwise it would look too lonely.” That wasn’t a business reason, exactly. More of a visual logic. An aesthetic alignment. An impulse to balance.

“I admire brands like Orto Parisi or Nasomatto,” he tells me. “They take their time.” He says it almost like a wish.

But Pernoire cannot take too much time.
Because the world does not wait for your slow ideas.
The world scrolls.
The world refreshes.
The world wants more.

Anelo, Otimo and Poka. My own photos. See more here.

Anelo is already a bestseller. “It’s new, it’s summery, it’s easy,” Robin says, not with pride exactly, but something more like curiosity. Like he’s watching the brand behave independently of him, developing instincts of its own. Then Melos is more niche again. Rooted. Inspired by Cleopatra, who is said to have had one of the first-ever beauty rituals. That kind of reference isn’t “on trend,” which is perhaps the point exactly.

Both of these scents are slightly more expensive to make than some of the other scents. Not because they last longer or are much heavier in concentration, but because the raw ingredients are costly. “This is a topic that sometimes breaks my brain,” Robin admits, laughingly. 

Some decisions are made in chemistry labs. Others in spreadsheets. Some in Instagram DMs.

“You can have great scents,
but if no one notices,
you’re done.”

And yet, attention is not a fixed thing. It comes with eyes and strings and brand deals and baggage. “Authenticity is very important to me,” Robin says. “But it’s impossible to do a complete background check on each person you work with.” He shrugs. It’s a shrug you can almost hear happen. “It’s part of the game.”

Poka submerged in popcorn. My own photos. See more here.

Some of the promotional videos on Pernoire’s Instagram feed are made with AI. They show perfume bottles in places and landscapes that don’t exist. A geometry of light that never touches earth. And Robin has a background in video. He knows how much it costs to make something truly beautiful – not “content”, but a feeling, a narrative. So they use AI sometimes. For freedom. For efficiency. For the same reason anyone turns to machines: for survival.

“With AI, it’s resource management,” Robin says. “But I’m trying to be conscious about the impact. We still pay a photographer for our photos.”

Will that line hold? Will ethics keep pace with innovation? “We probably won’t be able to escape AI,” Robin says. Then, almost to himself:

“Will people stop caring about the ethics of it at some point?”

Pernoire is small. Only three full-time salaries (until very recently they were just two). The rest is a labor of love, endurance, and instinct. Like always, some scents sell better than others. Vitias, the second ever release, is still a steady favorite. Others, like Masar and Tierra, are perhaps more “out there”. 

“We’re going to be a bit more approachable now,” Robin says, referring to the Odus collection. “But we still don’t want to lose our niche.”

There’s that word again: niche. It’s a space, but also a scent. A shape of air that not everyone wants to breathe. A refusal, a risk, a kind of promise. And somewhere between a spreadsheet and a memory lives a small Swiss brand, trying not to disappear. Trying to stay strange. Trying to last.

And maybe that’s all any scent really does…
It lingers.
It fades.
But if you’re lucky – it lasts.

PS. Don’t forget to follow me @scentrified on Instagram! And if you’d like to see your boutique, brand or perhaps yourself on the blog? Send me an email and let’s talk!

DISCOUNT CODES FOR PERNOIRE PERFUMES – Use “SCENTRIFIEDDK” to get 20% off your Discovery Kit, and “SCENTRIFIED” for a free 7.5ml with purchase! Buy here: Pernoire.com

Into the Animal Kingdom with Victor Wong

Welcome to Scentrified Interviews, where I explore the stories, inspirations, and dreams of owners of perfume boutiques and brands, people who have truly dedicated their life to the pursuit of scentual excellence. Happy reading!

From the intriguing depths of the smoky T-Rex, to the playful charm of the fruity Chameleon, Zoologist Perfumes has carved a unique niche in the fragrance world. Behind the captivating animal-inspired scents lies a story of rapid growth, creative collaborations, and the challenges of navigating an increasingly popular niche market. 

As Zoologist is my all time favorite perfume brand, I’d actually been meaning to interview Victor Wong (the brand's founder) for years. When I finally reached out, he shared insights into Zoologist’s evolution, future plans, and the philosophy that drives its distinctive approach to perfumery. Read on to delve into the heart of the brand and explore the journey from a passion project to a global phenomenon.

“It’s almost growing too fast,
I’m kind of stuck in a bottleneck!”

With 40-something different bottles, Zoologist has already been around for over a decade. But the growth they’ve seen in the recent couple of years has been nothing short of explosive, particularly fueled by the reach of niche fragrance influencers, on platforms like TikTok and Instagram. This surge in popularity, however, has presented some logistical and production related hurdles. 

The transition from a “basement style operation” to a brand shipping around 20k bottles annually has necessitated a reevaluation of production and packaging. The possibility of a European shipping and fulfillment partner has also been considered, though Victor likens it to a “franchise”, a concept that feels daunting. “The business side of things is kind of triggering for me,” he confesses laughingly.

Squid is one of Victor’s bestsellers, currently at around 300-500 bottles a month.

At the core of Zoologist’s success lies its collaborative spirit with independent perfumers. The brand's founder emphasizes the importance of working with diverse talents, avoiding repetition, and fostering creative freedom. The story of Prin Lomros, who to date has done the most scents for the brand, exemplifies this dedication. Right at the beginning, Prin wanted to create something for Zoologist;

“He sent me about 30 mods of different animals. I was so moved.” 

However, working with indie perfumers also presents some challenges. Victor says they can be “rough around the edges” and more strong willed than other perfumers, but at the same time “full of unique and innovative ideas”.

The search for the perfect Otter scent, for instance, proved challenging, with the founder feeling the perfumer hadn’t understood his brief at all, and the animal was scrapped. The process of fragrance development is often iterative, with some scents requiring dozens of revisions. “The original version of Dragonfly had something like 50 mods, and in the end the perfumer told me to ‘Take it or leave it’”, he recalls, revealing the intricate and sometimes demanding nature of creating a Zoologist fragrance.

Bat (to the right) is one of the scents that has gone through a reformulation.

Zoologist’s animal-inspired concept continues to drive its creative direction. The brand is known for exploring unconventional animal themes, venturing beyond the usual suspects. People often request that Victor releases animals like Shark, Turtle, Alligator, Wolf…

“…but I just like cute and weird animals!” 

And in true Victor Wong fashion, today, on the 1st of April, there was a surprise limited release (which sold out immediately) of Olm, by Spyros Drosopoulos (of Baruti fame). But fret not, it’s coming back next year. And before that, there will be two more releases in 2025 – Orchid Mantis by Tomoo Inaba (Moth/Nightingale) and Portuguese Man O’War by Antoine Lie. Victor teases the latter with the question: “Can you evoke pain and fear in a scent?”

The founder also mentions the concept of a microscopic animal, a bold and imaginative idea that challenges the perfumer to create a scent that “evokes entire ecosystems”. The concept, a sort of polar opposite to T-Rex, has been discussed with Antonio Gardoni [the dino perfumer himself], but put on hold for the moment. 

Zoologist’s business decisions are rooted in a desire to maintain authenticity and creative control. The shift to round bottles and machine labeling was a practical move, addressing the inefficiencies of hand-labeling. 

The new round bottles have an updated label, with the name of the perfumer to the left of the portrait, with the name of the animal to the right. The bottles are basically the same size, but the grip in your hand is much better, with an embossed base and a magnetic cap.

“I have over 10 years of experience putting on labels, but the rejection rate was still 50%. It’s just not worth it.” 

The rise of niche perfumery has undoubtedly benefited Zoologist, but the brand’s appeal extends beyond fleeting trends. Polarizing scents like Hyrax continue to find their audience, proving that there’s a demand for bold and unconventional fragrances. “The animalic lovers are still into those intense things I guess!”

The brand’s success reflects the growing appreciation for unique and artistic fragrances, signaling a shift in the broader perfume landscape. And while the idea of selling the brand has been considered, it’s not something that is being actively pursued. “Zoologist will probably just end whenever I retire,” Victor adds. 

Zoologist Perfumes stands as a testament to the power of creative vision and the challenges of scaling a passion project. From its humble beginnings to its current status as a celebrated niche brand, Zoologist continues to push boundaries and redefine the art of fragrance. With exciting new releases on the horizon and a commitment to authenticity, Zoologist’s journey is far from over, promising to captivate fragrance enthusiasts for years to come.

PS1. All pictures of the old bottles in this article are from my own series called Zoologist Poetry Hour, that I publish on my Instagram from time to time, complete with a specially written poem for each animal.

Also, don’t forget to follow me (@scentrified) and Zoologist (+ here’s the brand website).

PS2. Would you like to see your boutique, brand or perhaps yourself on the blog? Send me an email and let’s talk!

Dreaming of peaches and divas: Inside Sarah Baker's creative mind

Welcome to Scentrified Interviews, where I explore the stories, inspirations, and dreams of owners of perfume boutiques and brands, people who have truly dedicated their life to the pursuit of scentual excellence. Happy reading!

It isn't difficult to spot her in a room full of perfume industry leaders. Among mainly suit clad businesspeople, all eyes and attention easily go to Sarah Baker, an effortlessly glamorous but down to earth diva. With a background in the art world, she has a unique perspective and approach to fragrance, and her vision always seems crystal clear.

In interviews, she often mentions romance novels and nighttime soaps from the 1980s as a huge inspiration. The influence of these genres can be seen across Sarah Baker's work, through the dramatic and elegant, yet playful and mysterious fragrances the brand has come up with so far.

What exactly is it about these soaps and romance novels that interests you?

“That world holds a special place in my heart. These shows offer a fantastic blend of drama and romance, with a touch of murder and mystery. And the novels often have a forbidden love element. There's also a certain cheesiness and humor that is so charming, and it reflects an aesthetic that I find myself drawn to.”

You’ve also released an amazing book – Baroness – in collaboration with Versace, where the 80s soap theme shines through. In your opinion, how is fashion and fragrance connected?

“Since diving deeper into the world of fragrance, I see several interesting parallels. You have big trends, there are collectors, and there's the concept of a fragrance wardrobe – choosing scents based on mood or occasion, similar to how you might choose an outfit.”

“Perhaps fragrance is the new footwear?”

And then you did the brilliant song, Spritz Me with Your Love! I always get the feeling you're having lots of fun doing what you do. What's your message to people who take things too seriously?

“I started out with an artsy short film about a fictional perfume. Then for an exhibition, I basically turned the art gallery into a perfume boutique. I didn't have any business know-how at all. And I wouldn't say I'm jealous of it, but I admire the focus and dedication of very serious people. But there's also value in maintaining creativity and a sense of playfulness. I guess finding a way to ultimately blend these aspects is crucial for success.”

Speaking of fun, you once told a friend of mine to crash all the parties at Esxence (a perfume fair in Milan, Italy). What’s your best advice for someone who wants to crash a party?

“First impressions are key. Make sure you're well-groomed and put-together. A little lipstick or the right accessory can go a long way! Ideally, you want to appear like you belong.

If you can go with others who are genuinely invited, your chances of slipping in are much higher. Security personnel are less likely to question a small group, especially if everyone looks like they're meant to be there. I've personally crashed lots of art parties back in the day, and more recently I crashed the Xerjoff Yacht party in Cannes. All in all, they won't refuse you at the door unless someone like Beyoncé is in there.”

Having a small but passionate and resourceful team also gives Sarah Baker lots of creative freedom, and a great control over the final product. She and her team handle most aspects of production, from hiring artists to the hands-on creation of packaging. This allows them to maintain a strong artistic identity in everything they do.

“It's a family affair, with my husband as my co-owner and key partner. We also have wonderful support from our 9-year-old son, who gets involved in the creative process too. He offers his sense of smell and helps with naming and brainstorming based on visuals.”

Do you feel any pressure to continually release unique perfumes?

“To some extent, sure. But what truly matters to me is personal intrigue. A fragrance needs to spark my own interest. I've discontinued a couple of scents, like Lace, because they simply didn't hold my creative attention in the end.”

Sales figures isn't the sole deciding factor, either. Some of Sarah's less commercially successful scents, like Leopard, are her personal favorites. This scent has a devoted following, and its story resonates deeply with her, she says. The little script booklet that comes with Leopard feels like a scene straight out of Dynasty, taking place in the office of Joan Collins' character.

“She had a real leopard in her office you know!”

“In a way, I approach fragrance creation like casting characters for a soap opera. It's not like I have a specific persona in mind every time, but there's always a narrative element to my scents. Like, the idea of making a perfume based on a 10 ft tall dominatrix could be a fun thought experiment, but that's not really how inspiration strikes with me. Even if I initially want to explore a specific fragrance family, like with the Oud Trilogy, the creative process can take unexpected turns.”

What's the inspiration behind your latest release, Peach's Revenge? Tell us everything!

“We've worked with perfumer Chris Maurice before, and he often adds subtle fruity nuances in his work, even in scents that don't list them. This piqued my interest, and I suggested we do a fruit-forward fragrance. The name Peach's Revenge actually came to me in a dream! I woke up one morning with the name stuck in my head, and a memory of my mom's incredible peach pie.”

While the dessert itself never directly inspired Chris (he's never tasted it!), the name triggered an image that helped shape the overall mood. Sarah mentions that Chris added a creative twist by also incorporating guava and nectarine, two fruits she says she probably wouldn't have thought of.

How would you describe Peach's Revenge in pop culture terms?

“Peach's Revenge isn't necessarily about a specific character, but it definitely draws inspiration from strong female artists. Think of it as the fragrance equivalent of a song by Eve, or Kelis. It's bold, confident, and maybe a little bit unexpected, like a delicious milkshake with a surprising kick. It's not your typical girly and sweet perfume, just like those artists aren't your typical pop stars.”

“What truly matters to me is personal intrigue”

Peach's Revenge has been embraced by the fragrance community and gained wider recognition. I personally wouldn't be surprised if it goes on to win some kind of award down the line. Does it make you nervous about any future success?

“We do have a another gourmand fragrance coming up, from a perfumer we haven't worked with before. Maybe that will be a bit nerve wrecking, because there always seem to be very specific expectations when it's fruity or gourmand. Of course I hope Peach isn't the first and last time we face larger success, but our intention was never to do crowd-pleasers – we try to push boundaries and offer unique experiences. We create based on our vision, not trends. And if they don't become as big as Peach, and it's quite likely they won't, it honestly doesn't matter. Peach isn't going anywhere.”

Shortly after our interview, I attended the official release party for Peach's Revenge, at Jovoy Mayfair in London. The script for the new fragrance was acted out by four talented actors, directed and produced by Sarah herself. Peach drinks and mini peach cupcakes were served, adorned with tiny plastic swords. Who knew that revenge served with a slice of peach could smell, look and taste so good?

If you’re in the UK, you can find Sarah Baker’s perfumes at Jovoy Mayfair. For non-UK stockists and more about Sarah and the perfumes, head over the the brand website: https://www.sarahbakerperfumes.shop/.

And don’t forget to follow me (@scentrified) and the House of Sarah Baker on Instagram!

PS. Would you like to see your boutique, brand or perhaps yourself on the blog? Send me an email and let’s talk!

Left: Sarah Baker x Versace = Baroness. Right: Yours truly and Sarah, at Esxence in Milan, 2024.

A Spiritually Scented Odyssey

Welcome to the second part of my series Scentrified Interviews, where I explore the stories, inspirations, and dreams of owners of perfume boutiques and brands, people who have truly dedicated their life to the pursuit of scentual excellence. Happy reading!

In the bustling streets of Paris, nestled among the city's iconic fashion houses and cafes, there's a fragrance boutique that stands out from the rest. Spiritum Paris, born from the remnants of a life-changing spiritual trip, has quickly gained a following, with its unique fragrances and sustainable ethos, leaving an indelible mark in the perfume industry. I recently had the pleasure of sitting down with Jonathan Dufour, the visionary founder of the brand that weaves together the mysticism of a shamanic retreat in Peru with the artistry of scent creation. 

Jonathan's journey to creating his own brand was anything but conventional. With a background working for other perfume brands, he found himself at a crossroads in life, yearning for something more profound.

"I needed to heal and regain my spiritual powers."

This feeling led him to embark on a transformative shamanic retreat in Peru. It was during this trip, surrounded by scents of sandalwood, incense, and sage, that the seeds of inspiration for Spiritum were sown.

Upon returning from his experience in South America, which he describes as filled with inner healing, Jonathan decided to channel the spiritual guidance he had received into creating his own brand. In 2022, he launched Spiritum, and within just a year, the doors of his perfume boutique opened in the heart of Paris. The boutique's success speaks volumes about the captivating fragrances, and according to Jonathan, a remarkable two-thirds of shoppers leave with a product in hand.

Spiritum Paris is not your typical French fragrance house. Instead, it's a place where spirituality and scent converge. Jonathan has introduced a first series of fragrances based on numerology (numbers 1 through 9), perfumes that harmonize with individual personalities. 

“I actually have another 10 fragrances to launch in the future.”

The brand has already found its way into the hearts of fragrance enthusiasts in France, US (online for now), and in Romania (the brand’s top 3 markets so far). For those who don’t know the brand at all, Jonathan recommends the latest addition – Shamanism – a blend of floral, citrusy, woody, ambery, and musky notes that transport you to a mystical realm. On most days, it’s this scent that he himself chooses to wear. 

“I have five favorite perfumers, so I called some of them and asked if they wanted to work with me.” 

To bring his unique vision to life, Jonathan has enlisted the talents of renowned perfumers Bertrand Duchafour and Philippe Paparella-Paris. Their collaboration has resulted in some quite unique and unconventional scents. The brand owner’s plans doesn't stop at his Parisian boutique. He is already dreaming about opening a shop in New York, and perhaps even Tokyo in the future. No matter where the brand takes him, it’s clear that his fragrances have the potential to enchant hearts and senses worldwide.

My photos of the discovery kit with numbers 1 through 9, and my bottle of Final Spirit (Nr 9).

Jonathan also gave me a sneak peek into what's to come. The upcoming collection, featuring the three master numbers – 11, 22, and 33 – will launch at the end of this year. One is centered around fresh orange blossom, one is a crisp leather, and the last a sweet patchouli (my personal favorite!). Each of them promises to be a spiritual journey of its own.

Lastly, Jonathan's beautiful commitment to sustainability extends to his packaging. He proudly shares that his brand uses no plastic and opts for eco-friendly packaging made from cork, sourced from Spain and Portugal, held together with sugar cane tape. It's a clear reflection of his dedication to both the Earth and the spiritual essence that his brand represents.

In a world of mass-produced and boring fragrances, Spiritum Paris offers a lovely blend of spirituality, sustainability, and magical scents – a testament to the power of following one's heart and intuition in both fragrance and life. It's a journey that continues to evolve, leaving us all eagerly anticipating what's next in this fragrant odyssey.

3 rapid fire questions with Jonathan Dufour:

1. Favorite note(s) in a perfume?
   Sandalwood

2. Best fragrance to use in Paris?
   Shamanism, by Spiritum Paris

3. One of your favorite brands/scents:
   Not a Perfume, by Juliette Has a Gun

Find the physical boutique in Paris, where you can also smell the brand’s candles. 

Address: 
36 Rue Jacob
75006 Paris

Happy shopping! And don’t forget to follow me (@scentrified) and Spiritum on Instagram!

PS. Would you like to see your boutique, brand or perhaps yourself on the blog? Write me an email and let’s talk!

Visiting Embassy Niche Perfumery

Welcome to the first part in a series I’m calling Scentrified Interviews, where I will explore the stories, inspirations, and dreams of owners of perfume boutiques and brands, people who have truly dedicated their life to the pursuit of scentual excellence.

So let’s start by embarking on an olfactory journey with the passionate owner of a charming Portuguese perfume boutique. In this exclusive interview, I delve deep into the Lisbon boutique that has captivated the hearts and noses of Portuguese and international perfume lovers alike. Read on to discover the secrets behind curating a unique collection of perfumes and gain insights into the fascinating world of niche fragrances. 

“We want to democratize niche perfumery and showcase the best.”

Embassy Niche Perfumery opened its doors in December of 2016, just a few days before Christmas. And they started out small, with brands like Rania J, Stephane Humbert Lucas and Andy Tauer. They mainly stock “the niche of the niche”, as owner Ricardo Claudino calls it, and always aim to find brands with a specific DNA, and from many different countries. There are of course a couple of bigger brands too. 

“We don’t need to be on the biggest streets where everyone is walking, because not everyone is interested in niche perfumes to begin with.”

It won’t matter if you’re living in Lisbon, or if you’re just visiting. Embassy truly isn’t hard to find, located just a few steps away from the city’s most luxurious shopping street Avenida de Liberdade. Perhaps this is where you’ll find yourself when your traveling companion wants to visit a museum you don’t find all that interesting? 

“Our mission has always been to show Portugal what niche perfume can be. We don’t go for the biggest and most expensive brands, but try to have a good mix of brands that are sometimes harder to find.”

Niche perfumery in Portugal is still somewhat new, and has recently started growing. Ricardo mentions that they stocked the British brand BeauFort London in the beginning, but those fragrances were a little too complex and challenging for an audience that was just beginning to understand that there’s a world outside of what you’d find at at department store or in the duty free section of an airport. 

“But they’re ready for it now! I think BeauFort would work if we started stocking them again. The market has changed so much in the last couple of years.”

Curiosity for niche and indie perfumery in Portugal seems to have started in specific Facebook groups, and then grown from there. The covid pandemic also helped, as many started their scented journeys when they were stuck at home with nothing else to do. 

Ricardo himself started his career as a model, and frequently traveled to Milan, where he would discover the many varied perfume boutiques. He then worked with luxury brands and boutiques in Lisbon, where he gained deeper insights about the industry. 

Ricardo felt like there was a big opportunity to do something within the niche market when he opened Embassy. He explains that they like communication, and love getting to know their customers. “Without them, we are nothing. They are our boss!” he adds, with a smile.

“Without them, we are nothing.”

A typical Portuguese person interested in perfume wants big performance, projection, longevity. They like something that lasts, preferably all day long. Some people still seem to believe that perfume is a female interest, something to do with make-up and beauty, but Embassy can easily prove them wrong, as the majority of their clients are actually men. And most of them like sweet, fruity and gourmand scents. “Opulent stuff with lots of sillage”, says Ricardo.

And customers from all over the world seem to love Embassy. Not long ago they received an award from renowned Spanish magazine Beautyprof, proclaiming them as the best and finest international niche perfumery of 2023.

“It feels amazing that so many important people from the industry voted for us, it’s an indication we’re doing something right.” 

3 rapid fire questions with Ricardo Claudino:

1. Favorite note(s) in a perfume?
   Tobacco, bergamot, nutmeg

2. Best fragrance for summer in Lisbon?
   Torino21 by Xerjoff

3. What’s a smell you can’t stand?
   Rhubarb and licorice

At the moment of writing, Embassy stocks almost 40 brands. Some of these include Ramon Monegal, Francesca Bianchi, Born to Stand Out, Clive Christian, Profumum Roma, Les Indémodables, and Baruti. For a full list, head over to their website. As of September, they are also offering a sample service, any 5 samples of 2ml each, for the low price of €30. 

The success has encouraged Ricardo to open another Embassy boutique, this time in the northern city of Porto. The brands offered there will vary slightly from what is currently offered in Lisbon. Ricardo also runs a Xerjoff Boutique next door from Embassy in Lisbon. This store offers exclusively Xerjoff perfumes, also worth a visit if you’re already heading to Embassy. 

Lisbon boutique: 
Rua Rodrigues Sampaio 112 C

Porto boutique:  (opening in december 2023)
Rua de Ceuta 17

Happy shopping! And don’t forget to follow me (@scentrified) and Embassy on Instagram!

PS. Would you like to see your boutique/brand on the blog? Write me an email and let’s talk!

Interview with Matiere Premiere at Skinlife

A little while ago I had the honor of attending a Q&A at Skinlife in Lisbon, with Aurelien Guichard and Cédric Meiffret, two of the three founders of the perfume brand Matiere Premiere. 

If you’re not already familiar with the brand, they are quite popular lately and currently have 11 fragrances, one being a Harrods exclusive. My own favorites from the line are Encens Suave, Falcon Leather and Parisian Musc. And to my own surprise, I am not totally opposed to their immensely popular rose scent, Radical Rose. A couple of these will be touched upon in the interview below, so please keep reading to find out more about this special fragrance house. 

“If someone stops you in the street and asks what perfume you’re wearing, then I’ve done a good job.”

Matiere Premiere was founded in 2019. Previously, Aurelien had worked many years for Narciso Rodriguez, who as most people know, is obsessed with musks. So when Aurelien would later create Matiere’s own musk, he wanted to make something different. He went looking for woody notes, ended up using cedar wood oil, and then topped it off with a green leaf note to amplify the vegetal parts of the fragrance. He made a green, woody and sweet musk. The outcome is the classy and elegant Parisian Musc as we know it today.

One of the many things I enjoy with Matiere is the names of the fragrances. They’re not extremely extravagant, but they’re still playful and catchy. 

How do you come up with the fragrance names? 
It’s all about intuition to be honest. It also has to fit the fragrance of course. For example Crystal Saffron is a very clear saffron, not golden at all. We also wanted it to sound cool! In the end I often spend a lot of time on the name. I want them to sound open minded and international, not just French.

The line feels almost complete already, so how many fragrances will the final collection have?
Yes, we actually feel the same. There’s a sense of totality here, but I think there is still more to explore! I don’t like when you smell several scents from a brand and they all smell more or less the same. So I want the fragrances from Matiere to be unique and different from each other. We also don’t want too many fragrances, perhaps we’ll release one per year, and then we’ll see how long we’ll manage to stay alive. We have no reason to discontinue any fragrances at the moment, they’re all selling quite well. 

How long does it take you to create a fragrance, and when do you know that a fragrance is ready for release?
Radical Rose and French Flower took between 1000 and 2000 tries before I finally reached a result I was happy with. That’s about 1-2 years in total, because I can often do 5-10 tries in one day. Crystal Saffron on the other hand took only 10 tries, or 2 days. 

We don’t listen to too many opinions, we launch what we want and when we want. Usually we ask some people to wear the fragrance and see how the reactions are, in the street and at home. 

Are you considering releasing other product lines in the future?
We don’t want to put lots of products on the shelves, we want to launch bestsellers. And only when we are ready. If we have nothing we’re happy with, we won’t launch anything. In 2022 we launched 2 fragrances because the tuberose was finally ready. And like I said before, Crystal Saffron was faster to create than the others. 

“Radical Rose took almost two years to complete.”

However, we are launching a body product range this year. We’ll be extending into body lotion and so on. When you have different types of products from the same scent line, it makes the brand look richer. This also goes hand in hand with having our own boutiques.

What do you think about fragrance taste in different cultures and parts of the world?
It seems taste is changing all over the world right now. What we used to think people like in for example Japan is not true anymore, and what French people like to wear has changed a lot too. Having said that, I try to create fragrances that don’t feel too French, or too fashion. 

What ingredients do you prefer to work with?
I love rose petals. Radical Rose has the highest rose concentration in the world, something I set out to do from the start, because I wanted to see what it would be like. That’s why it’s so deep and rich. We own our own production and fields, of rose, tuberose and lavender. Thanks to this, we can control the whole process from seed to finished product. This is something that’s quite unheard of within the fragrance industry. 

Unfortunately, not all our ingredients are organic. Either because it is not available or because they don’t smell that great. But we are always trying to encourage producers of other ingredients to be more organic and eco-friendly. 

How about Oud Seven, will it ever be available outside of Harrods?
We get almost 2000 messages per day about Oud Seven. It’s an exclusive for Harrods, simply because it’s Harrods. At first we had Falcon Leather as a Harrods exclusive, and our brand was very, very small. This was fantastic for such a small brand, to have an exclusive release for Harrods! But then we wanted to do a wider release of the leather fragrance, because we like it so much and it was so popular. When we decided to do that, Harrods asked us to make a new exclusive. 

We are not planning on selling it outside of Harrods, and we don’t want to start making more exclusives for other stores or locations because then we might get stuck doing that instead of what we truly want to do. 

Do you work for other brands still? 
I work on scents for big mainstream designers, but not for any other niche brands. 

“Perhaps we’ll release one fragrance per year and see how long we manage to stay alive.”

What fragrances do you like to wear yourself?
On a normal day I will wear whatever I’m working on, to see how it feels. 

What’s the next fragrance to be released from Matiere Premiere?
I’m currently working on a vanilla, and the challenge is to create a vanilla that isn’t sweet. I did finish it once, a long time ago, but in the end I wasn’t happy with the result and now I’m reworking it from scratch. The plan is to release it in the fall this year (2023).

So, what do you guys think about the brand? Which fragrance is your favorite? I for one can’t wait to try this mysterious vanilla, so let’s hope it gets finished on time! Thanks to Skinlife for this wonderful opportunity to meet Aurelien and all the best of luck to Matiere Premiere with their future releases and endeavors. 

Cédric Meiffret and Aurelien Guichard from Matiere Premiere, at Skinlife in Lisbon.