interview

Dreaming of peaches and divas: Inside Sarah Baker's creative mind

Welcome to Scentrified Interviews, where I explore the stories, inspirations, and dreams of owners of perfume boutiques and brands, people who have truly dedicated their life to the pursuit of scentual excellence. Happy reading!

Sarah Baker holds a mini cupcake with a slice of peach on top.

It isn't difficult to spot her in a room full of perfume industry leaders. Among mainly suit clad businesspeople, all eyes and attention easily go to Sarah Baker, an effortlessly glamorous but down to earth diva. With a background in the art world, she has a unique perspective and approach to fragrance, and her vision always seems crystal clear.

In interviews, she often mentions romance novels and nighttime soaps from the 1980s as a huge inspiration. The influence of these genres can be seen across Sarah Baker's work, through the dramatic and elegant, yet playful and mysterious fragrances the brand has come up with so far.

What exactly is it about these soaps and romance novels that interests you?

“That world holds a special place in my heart. These shows offer a fantastic blend of drama and romance, with a touch of murder and mystery. And the novels often have a forbidden love element. There's also a certain cheesiness and humor that is so charming, and it reflects an aesthetic that I find myself drawn to.”

You’ve also released an amazing book – Baroness – in collaboration with Versace, where the 80s soap theme shines through. In your opinion, how is fashion and fragrance connected?

“Since diving deeper into the world of fragrance, I see several interesting parallels. You have big trends, there are collectors, and there's the concept of a fragrance wardrobe – choosing scents based on mood or occasion, similar to how you might choose an outfit.”

“Perhaps fragrance is the new footwear?”

And then you did the brilliant song, Spritz Me with Your Love! I always get the feeling you're having lots of fun doing what you do. What's your message to people who take things too seriously?

“I started out with an artsy short film about a fictional perfume. Then for an exhibition, I basically turned the art gallery into a perfume boutique. I didn't have any business know-how at all. And I wouldn't say I'm jealous of it, but I admire the focus and dedication of very serious people. But there's also value in maintaining creativity and a sense of playfulness. I guess finding a way to ultimately blend these aspects is crucial for success.”

Sarah Baker poses in front of Jovoy Mayfair.

Speaking of fun, you once told a friend of mine to crash all the parties at Esxence (a perfume fair in Milan, Italy). What’s your best advice for someone who wants to crash a party?

“First impressions are key. Make sure you're well-groomed and put-together. A little lipstick or the right accessory can go a long way! Ideally, you want to appear like you belong.

If you can go with others who are genuinely invited, your chances of slipping in are much higher. Security personnel are less likely to question a small group, especially if everyone looks like they're meant to be there. I've personally crashed lots of art parties back in the day, and more recently I crashed the Xerjoff Yacht party in Cannes. All in all, they won't refuse you at the door unless someone like Beyoncé is in there.”

Having a small but passionate and resourceful team also gives Sarah Baker lots of creative freedom, and a great control over the final product. She and her team handle most aspects of production, from hiring artists to the hands-on creation of packaging. This allows them to maintain a strong artistic identity in everything they do.

“It's a family affair, with my husband as my co-owner and key partner. We also have wonderful support from our 9-year-old son, who gets involved in the creative process too. He offers his sense of smell and helps with naming and brainstorming based on visuals.”

Do you feel any pressure to continually release unique perfumes?

“To some extent, sure. But what truly matters to me is personal intrigue. A fragrance needs to spark my own interest. I've discontinued a couple of scents, like Lace, because they simply didn't hold my creative attention in the end.”

Sales figures isn't the sole deciding factor, either. Some of Sarah's less commercially successful scents, like Leopard, are her personal favorites. This scent has a devoted following, and its story resonates deeply with her, she says. The little script booklet that comes with Leopard feels like a scene straight out of Dynasty, taking place in the office of Joan Collins' character.

“She had a real leopard in her office you know!”

“In a way, I approach fragrance creation like casting characters for a soap opera. It's not like I have a specific persona in mind every time, but there's always a narrative element to my scents. Like, the idea of making a perfume based on a 10 ft tall dominatrix could be a fun thought experiment, but that's not really how inspiration strikes with me. Even if I initially want to explore a specific fragrance family, like with the Oud Trilogy, the creative process can take unexpected turns.”

What's the inspiration behind your latest release, Peach's Revenge? Tell us everything!

“We've worked with perfumer Chris Maurice before, and he often adds subtle fruity nuances in his work, even in scents that don't list them. This piqued my interest, and I suggested we do a fruit-forward fragrance. The name Peach's Revenge actually came to me in a dream! I woke up one morning with the name stuck in my head, and a memory of my mom's incredible peach pie.”

While the dessert itself never directly inspired Chris (he's never tasted it!), the name triggered an image that helped shape the overall mood. Sarah mentions that Chris added a creative twist by also incorporating guava and nectarine, two fruits she says she probably wouldn't have thought of.

How would you describe Peach's Revenge in pop culture terms?

“Peach's Revenge isn't necessarily about a specific character, but it definitely draws inspiration from strong female artists. Think of it as the fragrance equivalent of a song by Eve, or Kelis. It's bold, confident, and maybe a little bit unexpected, like a delicious milkshake with a surprising kick. It's not your typical girly and sweet perfume, just like those artists aren't your typical pop stars.”

“What truly matters to me is personal intrigue”

Peach's Revenge has been embraced by the fragrance community and gained wider recognition. I personally wouldn't be surprised if it goes on to win some kind of award down the line. Does it make you nervous about any future success?

“We do have a another gourmand fragrance coming up, from a perfumer we haven't worked with before. Maybe that will be a bit nerve wrecking, because there always seem to be very specific expectations when it's fruity or gourmand. Of course I hope Peach isn't the first and last time we face larger success, but our intention was never to do crowd-pleasers – we try to push boundaries and offer unique experiences. We create based on our vision, not trends. And if they don't become as big as Peach, and it's quite likely they won't, it honestly doesn't matter. Peach isn't going anywhere.”

Shortly after our interview, I attended the official release party for Peach's Revenge, at Jovoy Mayfair in London. The script for the new fragrance was acted out by four talented actors, directed and produced by Sarah herself. Peach drinks and mini peach cupcakes were served, adorned with tiny plastic swords. Who knew that revenge served with a slice of peach could smell, look and taste so good?

If you’re in the UK, you can find Sarah Baker’s perfumes at Jovoy Mayfair. For non-UK stockists and more about Sarah and the perfumes, head over the the brand website: https://www.sarahbakerperfumes.shop/.

And don’t forget to follow me (@scentrified) and the House of Sarah Baker on Instagram!

PS. Would you like to see your boutique, brand or perhaps yourself on the blog? Send me an email and let’s talk!

Left: Sarah Baker x Versace = Baroness. Right: Yours truly and Sarah, at Esxence in Milan, 2024.

A Spiritually Scented Odyssey

Welcome to the second part of my series Scentrified Interviews, where I explore the stories, inspirations, and dreams of owners of perfume boutiques and brands, people who have truly dedicated their life to the pursuit of scentual excellence. Happy reading!

In the bustling streets of Paris, nestled among the city's iconic fashion houses and cafes, there's a fragrance boutique that stands out from the rest. Spiritum Paris, born from the remnants of a life-changing spiritual trip, has quickly gained a following, with its unique fragrances and sustainable ethos, leaving an indelible mark in the perfume industry. I recently had the pleasure of sitting down with Jonathan Dufour, the visionary founder of the brand that weaves together the mysticism of a shamanic retreat in Peru with the artistry of scent creation. 

Jonathan's journey to creating his own brand was anything but conventional. With a background working for other perfume brands, he found himself at a crossroads in life, yearning for something more profound.

"I needed to heal and regain my spiritual powers."

This feeling led him to embark on a transformative shamanic retreat in Peru. It was during this trip, surrounded by scents of sandalwood, incense, and sage, that the seeds of inspiration for Spiritum were sown.

Upon returning from his experience in South America, which he describes as filled with inner healing, Jonathan decided to channel the spiritual guidance he had received into creating his own brand. In 2022, he launched Spiritum, and within just a year, the doors of his perfume boutique opened in the heart of Paris. The boutique's success speaks volumes about the captivating fragrances, and according to Jonathan, a remarkable two-thirds of shoppers leave with a product in hand.

Spiritum Paris is not your typical French fragrance house. Instead, it's a place where spirituality and scent converge. Jonathan has introduced a first series of fragrances based on numerology (numbers 1 through 9), perfumes that harmonize with individual personalities. 

“I actually have another 10 fragrances to launch in the future.”

The brand has already found its way into the hearts of fragrance enthusiasts in France, US (online for now), and in Romania (the brand’s top 3 markets so far). For those who don’t know the brand at all, Jonathan recommends the latest addition – Shamanism – a blend of floral, citrusy, woody, ambery, and musky notes that transport you to a mystical realm. On most days, it’s this scent that he himself chooses to wear. 

“I have five favorite perfumers, so I called some of them and asked if they wanted to work with me.” 

To bring his unique vision to life, Jonathan has enlisted the talents of renowned perfumers Bertrand Duchafour and Philippe Paparella-Paris. Their collaboration has resulted in some quite unique and unconventional scents. The brand owner’s plans doesn't stop at his Parisian boutique. He is already dreaming about opening a shop in New York, and perhaps even Tokyo in the future. No matter where the brand takes him, it’s clear that his fragrances have the potential to enchant hearts and senses worldwide.

My photos of the discovery kit with numbers 1 through 9, and my bottle of Final Spirit (Nr 9).

Jonathan also gave me a sneak peek into what's to come. The upcoming collection, featuring the three master numbers – 11, 22, and 33 – will launch at the end of this year. One is centered around fresh orange blossom, one is a crisp leather, and the last a sweet patchouli (my personal favorite!). Each of them promises to be a spiritual journey of its own.

Lastly, Jonathan's beautiful commitment to sustainability extends to his packaging. He proudly shares that his brand uses no plastic and opts for eco-friendly packaging made from cork, sourced from Spain and Portugal, held together with sugar cane tape. It's a clear reflection of his dedication to both the Earth and the spiritual essence that his brand represents.

In a world of mass-produced and boring fragrances, Spiritum Paris offers a lovely blend of spirituality, sustainability, and magical scents – a testament to the power of following one's heart and intuition in both fragrance and life. It's a journey that continues to evolve, leaving us all eagerly anticipating what's next in this fragrant odyssey.

3 rapid fire questions with Jonathan Dufour:

  1. Favorite note(s) in a perfume?
    Sandalwood

  2. Best fragrance to use in Paris?
    Shamanism, by Spiritum Paris

  3. One of your favorite brands/scents:
    Not a Perfume, by Juliette Has a Gun

Find the physical boutique in Paris, where you can also smell the brand’s candles. 

Address
36 Rue Jacob
75006 Paris

Happy shopping! And don’t forget to follow me (@scentrified) and Spiritum on Instagram!

PS. Would you like to see your boutique, brand or perhaps yourself on the blog? Write me an email and let’s talk!

Visiting Embassy Niche Perfumery

Welcome to the first part in a series I’m calling Scentrified Interviews, where I will explore the stories, inspirations, and dreams of owners of perfume boutiques and brands, people who have truly dedicated their life to the pursuit of scentual excellence.

So let’s start by embarking on an olfactory journey with the passionate owner of a charming Portuguese perfume boutique. In this exclusive interview, I delve deep into the Lisbon boutique that has captivated the hearts and noses of Portuguese and international perfume lovers alike. Read on to discover the secrets behind curating a unique collection of perfumes and gain insights into the fascinating world of niche fragrances. 

“We want to democratize niche perfumery and showcase the best.”

Embassy Niche Perfumery opened its doors in December of 2016, just a few days before Christmas. And they started out small, with brands like Rania J, Stephane Humbert Lucas and Andy Tauer. They mainly stock “the niche of the niche”, as owner Ricardo Claudino calls it, and always aim to find brands with a specific DNA, and from many different countries. There are of course a couple of bigger brands too. 

“We don’t need to be on the biggest streets where everyone is walking, because not everyone is interested in niche perfumes to begin with.”

It won’t matter if you’re living in Lisbon, or if you’re just visiting. Embassy truly isn’t hard to find, located just a few steps away from the city’s most luxurious shopping street Avenida de Liberdade. Perhaps this is where you’ll find yourself when your traveling companion wants to visit a museum you don’t find all that interesting? 

“Our mission has always been to show Portugal what niche perfume can be. We don’t go for the biggest and most expensive brands, but try to have a good mix of brands that are sometimes harder to find.”

Niche perfumery in Portugal is still somewhat new, and has recently started growing. Ricardo mentions that they stocked the British brand BeauFort London in the beginning, but those fragrances were a little too complex and challenging for an audience that was just beginning to understand that there’s a world outside of what you’d find at at department store or in the duty free section of an airport. 

“But they’re ready for it now! I think BeauFort would work if we started stocking them again. The market has changed so much in the last couple of years.”

Curiosity for niche and indie perfumery in Portugal seems to have started in specific Facebook groups, and then grown from there. The covid pandemic also helped, as many started their scented journeys when they were stuck at home with nothing else to do. 

Ricardo himself started his career as a model, and frequently traveled to Milan, where he would discover the many varied perfume boutiques. He then worked with luxury brands and boutiques in Lisbon, where he gained deeper insights about the industry. 

Ricardo felt like there was a big opportunity to do something within the niche market when he opened Embassy. He explains that they like communication, and love getting to know their customers. “Without them, we are nothing. They are our boss!” he adds, with a smile.

“Without them, we are nothing.”

A typical Portuguese person interested in perfume wants big performance, projection, longevity. They like something that lasts, preferably all day long. Some people still seem to believe that perfume is a female interest, something to do with make-up and beauty, but Embassy can easily prove them wrong, as the majority of their clients are actually men. And most of them like sweet, fruity and gourmand scents. “Opulent stuff with lots of sillage”, says Ricardo.

And customers from all over the world seem to love Embassy. Not long ago they received an award from renowned Spanish magazine Beautyprof, proclaiming them as the best and finest international niche perfumery of 2023.

“It feels amazing that so many important people from the industry voted for us, it’s an indication we’re doing something right.” 

3 rapid fire questions with Ricardo Claudino:

  1. Favorite note(s) in a perfume?
    Tobacco, bergamot, nutmeg

  2. Best fragrance for summer in Lisbon?
    Torino21 by Xerjoff

  3. What’s a smell you can’t stand?
    Rhubarb and licorice

At the moment of writing, Embassy stocks almost 40 brands. Some of these include Ramon Monegal, Francesca Bianchi, Born to Stand Out, Clive Christian, Profumum Roma, Les Indémodables, and Baruti. For a full list, head over to their website. As of September, they are also offering a sample service, any 5 samples of 2ml each, for the low price of €30. 

The success has encouraged Ricardo to open another Embassy boutique, this time in the northern city of Porto. The brands offered there will vary slightly from what is currently offered in Lisbon. Ricardo also runs a Xerjoff Boutique next door from Embassy in Lisbon. This store offers exclusively Xerjoff perfumes, also worth a visit if you’re already heading to Embassy. 

Lisbon boutique: 
Rua Rodrigues Sampaio 112 C

Porto boutique:  (opening in december 2023)
Rua de Ceuta 17

Happy shopping! And don’t forget to follow me (@scentrified) and Embassy on Instagram!

PS. Would you like to see your boutique/brand on the blog? Write me an email and let’s talk!

Interview with Matiere Premiere at Skinlife

A little while ago I had the honor of attending a Q&A at Skinlife in Lisbon, with Aurelien Guichard and Cédric Meiffret, two of the three founders of the perfume brand Matiere Premiere

If you’re not already familiar with the brand, they are quite popular lately and currently have 11 fragrances, one being a Harrods exclusive. My own favorites from the line are Encens Suave, Falcon Leather and Parisian Musc. And to my own surprise, I am not totally opposed to their immensely popular rose scent, Radical Rose. A couple of these will be touched upon in the interview below, so please keep reading to find out more about this special fragrance house. 

“If someone stops you in the street and asks what perfume you’re wearing, then I’ve done a good job.”

Matiere Premiere was founded in 2019. Previously, Aurelien had worked many years for Narciso Rodriguez, who as most people know, is obsessed with musks. So when Aurelien would later create Matiere’s own musk, he wanted to make something different. He went looking for woody notes, ended up using cedar wood oil, and then topped it off with a green leaf note to amplify the vegetal parts of the fragrance. He made a green, woody and sweet musk. The outcome is the classy and elegant Parisian Musc as we know it today.

One of the many things I enjoy with Matiere is the names of the fragrances. They’re not extremely extravagant, but they’re still playful and catchy. 

How do you come up with the fragrance names? 
It’s all about intuition to be honest. It also has to fit the fragrance of course. For example Crystal Saffron is a very clear saffron, not golden at all. We also wanted it to sound cool! In the end I often spend a lot of time on the name. I want them to sound open minded and international, not just French.

The line feels almost complete already, so how many fragrances will the final collection have?
Yes, we actually feel the same. There’s a sense of totality here, but I think there is still more to explore! I don’t like when you smell several scents from a brand and they all smell more or less the same. So I want the fragrances from Matiere to be unique and different from each other. We also don’t want too many fragrances, perhaps we’ll release one per year, and then we’ll see how long we’ll manage to stay alive. We have no reason to discontinue any fragrances at the moment, they’re all selling quite well. 

How long does it take you to create a fragrance, and when do you know that a fragrance is ready for release?
Radical Rose and French Flower took between 1000 and 2000 tries before I finally reached a result I was happy with. That’s about 1-2 years in total, because I can often do 5-10 tries in one day. Crystal Saffron on the other hand took only 10 tries, or 2 days. 

We don’t listen to too many opinions, we launch what we want and when we want. Usually we ask some people to wear the fragrance and see how the reactions are, in the street and at home. 

Are you considering releasing other product lines in the future?
We don’t want to put lots of products on the shelves, we want to launch bestsellers. And only when we are ready. If we have nothing we’re happy with, we won’t launch anything. In 2022 we launched 2 fragrances because the tuberose was finally ready. And like I said before, Crystal Saffron was faster to create than the others. 

“Radical Rose took almost two years to complete.”

However, we are launching a body product range this year. We’ll be extending into body lotion and so on. When you have different types of products from the same scent line, it makes the brand look richer. This also goes hand in hand with having our own boutiques.

What do you think about fragrance taste in different cultures and parts of the world?
It seems taste is changing all over the world right now. What we used to think people like in for example Japan is not true anymore, and what French people like to wear has changed a lot too. Having said that, I try to create fragrances that don’t feel too French, or too fashion. 

What ingredients do you prefer to work with?
I love rose petals. Radical Rose has the highest rose concentration in the world, something I set out to do from the start, because I wanted to see what it would be like. That’s why it’s so deep and rich. We own our own production and fields, of rose, tuberose and lavender. Thanks to this, we can control the whole process from seed to finished product. This is something that’s quite unheard of within the fragrance industry. 

Unfortunately, not all our ingredients are organic. Either because it is not available or because they don’t smell that great. But we are always trying to encourage producers of other ingredients to be more organic and eco-friendly. 

How about Oud Seven, will it ever be available outside of Harrods?
We get almost 2000 messages per day about Oud Seven. It’s an exclusive for Harrods, simply because it’s Harrods. At first we had Falcon Leather as a Harrods exclusive, and our brand was very, very small. This was fantastic for such a small brand, to have an exclusive release for Harrods! But then we wanted to do a wider release of the leather fragrance, because we like it so much and it was so popular. When we decided to do that, Harrods asked us to make a new exclusive. 

We are not planning on selling it outside of Harrods, and we don’t want to start making more exclusives for other stores or locations because then we might get stuck doing that instead of what we truly want to do. 

Do you work for other brands still? 
I work on scents for big mainstream designers, but not for any other niche brands. 

“Perhaps we’ll release one fragrance per year and see how long we manage to stay alive.”

What fragrances do you like to wear yourself?
On a normal day I will wear whatever I’m working on, to see how it feels. 

What’s the next fragrance to be released from Matiere Premiere?
I’m currently working on a vanilla, and the challenge is to create a vanilla that isn’t sweet. I did finish it once, a long time ago, but in the end I wasn’t happy with the result and now I’m reworking it from scratch. The plan is to release it in the fall this year (2023).

So, what do you guys think about the brand? Which fragrance is your favorite? I for one can’t wait to try this mysterious vanilla, so let’s hope it gets finished on time! Thanks to Skinlife for this wonderful opportunity to meet Aurelien and all the best of luck to Matiere Premiere with their future releases and endeavors. 

Cédric Meiffret and Aurelien Guichard from Matiere Premiere, at Skinlife in Lisbon.